Sabtu, 24 Mei 2014

Why does my carbon monoxide detector keep beeping?




MirandaT


2 days ago my detector started a slow beep every 30 seconds. I has no idea what was going on & turned the heater off & opened the windows. It stopped after about 10mon & I thought I solved the problem. Then yesterday it did it again! I did the same process over & even pushed the test/silence button to make it stop. I called & was told that it was a low battery that needed to be changed, So I went & bought new ones to exchange with the old. Again, I thought I solved the problem. Now, only 8 hours after purchasing new batteries the slow beeping has started up again!! I don't know what to do?? The heater hasn't been on since the first incident yesterday & the windows are still open. What should I do?!


Answer
What I would suggest is to try new batteries, If that fails, then put a different detector in same area and see if it happens with that one. If not, its safe to say you have a faulty detector. However, if it too goes off then there is always a possibility that you have a monoxide problem. Hope this helps.

carbon monoxide detectors?




Prevaricat


My CO monitor beeps randomly from time to time. Is this normal? I assume that if I did have a CO problem, it wouold beep like crazy. As is, it beeps only a few times every now and then. Should I be concerned?


Answer
1) You may have a battery issue. All detectors that operate on batteries or have battery back-up will CHIRP occasionally to remind you that the battery needs to be replaced. The battery may be low on voltage or it no longer can take a "load' to operate the device.

2) You my have a dirty detector. Sometimes the CHIRPING may continue even after replacing the battery. Use a vacuum cleaner to suck out the dust that accumulates over time. Take your time and do a thorough job.

3) You my have a bad detector. Smoke and CO detectors do not last forever. They should be replaced if 10 years old or more.

Note: Smoke and CO detector batteries should be replaced at least once a year. Don't get into a lazy habit of waiting until it CHIRPS to replace it. A good rule of thumb is to replace all detector & alarm batteries when the clocks are changed for Day Light Saving Time.

Always use name brand Alkali batteries, bargain batteries are not a good idea in this application.

All detectors & alarms are designed with "smart" technology. Listen to what they're telling you and don't ignore the warning signals. They can't save your life if they're not working.




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Carbon Monoxide Detectors?




psychoholi


Should they be mounted high on a wall or low to the floor to properly detect Carbon Monoxide?
The detector I have is in no way going to be slept through, believe me. Should I mount it at head level with the bed? I guess really what I'm also trying to find out is if Carbon Monoxide is heavier or lighter than air.



Answer
It is recommend you place CO alarms near the sleeping areas, and on each level of the home. A good rule of thumb for the number and placement of CO alarms for your particular home is to place CO alarms near smoke and fire alarms that have been installed to meet current building code requirements in your area. Do not place CO alarms in the furnace room, kitchen or garage as these locations could lead to nuisance alarms.

Generally, one detector can be adequate for 1,200 to 1,500 square feet of living space. The most important determination for the number of CO alarms needed is whether an alarm can be heard in all sleeping areas. If you install only one CO alarm in your home, install the detector near bedrooms, not in the basement or furnace room.

For ease of viewing the visual indicators, (digital displays or alarm lights), it is recommended to place the CO alarm at eye level or above. Do not place the CO alarm in "dead air" spaces (no closer than 6" from the ceiling or floor) or turbulent air spaces such as by an open window, door or by a ceiling fan.

Where is the best place to put my carbon monoxide detector?




Flynn2


I live in a 1100 square foot condo. Living area, 2 small bedrooms downstairs. Upstairs is a master bedroom and master bath only. From the master bedroom upstairs, there is a small door that goes to the attic space. The hot water heater and inside HVAC unit are right next to each other. Nothing else in the house runs on gas at all. There is also an outlet next to the door on the inside.

Should I put the detector right next to the two appliances? Should I put it right outside of the small door or put one downstairs? I'm afraid if I put it in the attic and the CO came through the vents, the detector would be too late.

I would like to have this answered by a HVAC expert or emergency personnel. Thanks.



Answer
Install your carbon monoxide detector according to the specific manufacturers installation instructions that came with it. If you do not have the instructions or cannot find them for your unit, throw it out. Buy a new carbon monoxide detector with complete installation instructions and warranty information. The new co detector will come with the manufacturers placement recommendations for that specific product.

The Ultimate Solution; You can have a commercial alarm company come out and install a full set of fire, smoke, and carbon monoxide units that will be monitored 24/7.

Also, have a licensed Plumbing, HVAC, or Mechanical company inspect your gas appliances at least once a year.




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My Carbon Monoxide Beeps Twice after a Reset Before Going to Zero.?




Johnny


I noticed today that my carbon monoxide detector had become a little unplugged from the outlet. I plugged it back in immediately and hit the reset button. The detector's numbers lit up (showing 888) and made no noise. A few moments later it displayed 244 and then 222 and started beeping. It then went back to all numbers lit up and then immediately went to zero and was silent. This whole process took about 1 minutes or so. When this happened I immediately went outside and called someone to ask about this (not the police immediately). They said it probably just happened when you hit the reset button. I was thinking this too and so went back inside and hit the reset button again. It went through the same sequence, eventually ending at 0. So, is it safe inside the house? Is this common or does this occur with anyone else? Any help or input is appreciated. I personally believe it is something that happens every reset. I believe this system is a nighthawk carbon monoxide detector.


Answer
Here are a couple of links to answer all your questions about carbon monoxide detectors and what is carbon monoxide.

How old is your detector? Even though it is a plug in, does it also have a battery. Some do.

http://www.ezfix101.com/2011/08/how-to-buy-carbon-monoxide-detectors.html


http://www.ezfix101.com/2011/08/how-does-carbon-monoxide-detector-work.html

my carbon monoxide detector keeps beeping and it says "err."? whats going on?




hmmmm.....


i've never had anythink like this happen. the detector is a few years old, and all the sudden about 15 minutes ago i heard something beep and then i heard it beep again and realized it was the detector. when i went to see what was going on all it said was "Err." or what obviously means error. why is it doing this and whats going on?!?! never ever have i had the thing go off because of carbon monoxide! and its not showing numbers, i've tried unplugging it and it plugs in and lights up 888 [like it always does] and then goes to Err.

whats going on with it? am i safe, or should i get out of the house? and how do i fix this?

please i need help asap!

thanks!
whoops i just realized what category this is in! sorry



Answer
I would call for assistance immemorially and stay stationed outside of the house.

A family friend of ours had a similar problem.

Call over a neighbor for assistance.




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Jumat, 23 Mei 2014

Strange question about Carbon Monoxide detector...?




paganmom


I was putting peppermint extract on my countertop (long story=)) and my carbon monoxide detector went off...I quickly wiped up the extract to make sure that was the reason before I wasted time hustling everyone out of the house. When I wiped it up the detector turned off....I then put the extract back under the detector and it went off again.

So my question is, why would my detector go off from peppermint extract? It is a professional detector that you would find in a business....not a cheap one you can buy at Walmart...so I don't think it's a defective product.
Michael,

I own a Safety Siren ProSeries the model number is HS80504...it is also a propane and methane gas detector.



Answer
I am not a student or anybody involved with chemistry but you have peeked my interest, I am a Master Carpenter and work as a consultant to major home builders and I am going to find out if what you claim is true and if other chemical vapors can set off these detectors and if this happens you can bet that I will be addressing the findings to the manufactureres of the detectors that are found to ''go off'' from other vapors/fumes. Thank you for the information, I will post the findings so you will have an answer to your question, but it won't be for at least a year from now if not sooner.

A strange question about Carbon Monoxide detector...?




paganmom


I was putting peppermint extract on my countertop (long story=)) and my carbon monoxide detector went off...I quickly wiped up the extract to make sure that was the reason before I wasted time hustling everyone out of the house. When I wiped it up the detector turned off....I then put the extract back under the detector and it went off again.

So my question is, why would my detector go off from peppermint extract? It is a professional detector that you would find in a business....not a cheap one you can buy at Walmart...so I don't think it's a defective product.

I own a Safety Siren ProSeries the model number is HS80504...it is also a propane and methane gas detector.
I have done it a few times...and yes, of course it emits fumes or a gas, I was wondering what the gas/fumes was.



Answer
I think it's most likely the combustible gas detector in your "Safety Siren". It's supposed to have a different alarm for CO, or methane/propane, so you might be able to check this out.

Your peppermint extract contains menthone which could possibly be confused with methane/propane since it's also a volatile organic compound.

My advice is to unplug your detector next time you put peppermint extract on your countertop. =)




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Kamis, 22 Mei 2014

Whats the best carbon monoxide detector to get?

Q. What would be the best kind to get? Or at least a good kind, but at a good price?


Answer
Bryant or Carrier CO detectors are good ones. Nighthawk also makes a good CO detector. I'd stay away from First Alert, their smoke detectors may work well but their CO detectors suck.

where do i place a carbon monoxide detector?




keith r





Answer
In the sleeping area, the hallway in the sleeping area preferably. Carbon monoxide has roughly the same density as air so it will mix readily in the home with air if released. You want the detector in the sleeping area so it will alert you and you can hear it in the middle of the night




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Selasa, 20 Mei 2014

Does anyone own a KIDDE smoke or carbon monoxide detector?




catherine


I installed fresh batteries twice in both detectors & they are still going off intermittently. Coincidentally-both detectors did this on the same night. Any answers?


Answer
Check the build date on each unit. If they are more than 5 years old they need to be replaced. These detectors do not last forever.

Carbon Monoxide - Possible Sources?




Melissa


We live in the middle of a block of rowhomes in Baltimore City. For the second time in a month, the CO alarms have gone off at the houses on either side of us. This time, I was the only one of all of us who was awake. I had used hot water for a shower and washed a few dishes about an hour before. Firefighters checked our three homes, as well as the two other houses adjoining my neighbors. Readings were 30 ppm in one of the alarm houses and 90 in the other; zero in my home and the two other neighbors. When the firefighter turned on the hot water and held the meter next to my water heater for ten minutes, the highest reading he got was 8 ppm. We immediately replaced our CO alarm with a detector with a constant display, which is still showing 0 ppm after two hours in the room with the furnace (not running) and the water heater. The alley behind our homes is too narrow for a car or truck. We are at a loss for the source. Any ideas?
We have a Weber kettle grill and a Weber smoker, which we haven't used yet this year because we are having a particularly rainy summer. The alarm houses have gas grills, but this was 4.30 in the morning. Even if they both happened to have faulty tanks, they would have had to have been lit sometime around the time of the alarm, right? The 30 ppm house was gutted and rebuilt last year. The contractors were questionable, but the HVAC sub-contractors are reputable, as far as we know.



Answer
CO comes only from incomplete combustion of hydrocarbons (including charcoal), and not from any other sources. It is also lighter than air, and so may build up well away from where it is generated.

As you are in a row-house - if you share a chimney with a neighbor, and their flue is partially or entirely blocked, that CO may penetrate into your flue/house from next door. It is also possible that you may even share a flue, although that is unlikely.

Other sources might include a charcoal-fired grille near an open window or intake fan that might draw CO into the house. A partially blocked flue - or one that is blocked intermittently by a nest, or a loose brick or something similar such that the CO builds up at odd times.

I suggest that you check all your flues - all of them - and make sure that they are clear, free of any obstructions and draw properly. I suggest that while you are at it, you check any flues on your common walls and any that may vent near any of your windows at any level. You should also (if at all possible), see if your neighbors might be operating a charcoal device such as even a small hibachi inside their house - or may be using some other device such as a still, retort or other equipment that uses a fairly large flame, but may be in an area with restricted air intake.

NOTE ALSO: if you have your water heater in a tight basement, closet or other area without free access to outside (fresh) air in quantity, it might operate perfectly normally with the fire department standing around (all the doors open), but when you close the doors and restrict air-flow to it, start to produce CO in quantity.

You have done the right thing with the detector. Good luck with it in general!




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Carbon Monoxide Leaks?

Q. my mom and stepfather believe there could be a carbon monoxide leak in their could this be the reason they both feel exhausted?


Answer
You did not say where the possible carbon monoxide leak was suspected. Is it in a house or in a car? If it is in a car, go take an exhaust emissions SMOG Test. CO gases have no odor and are not usually detectable by humans. If a CO leak is in a house, you can buy a CO detector that goes on a wall in the area of bedrooms. The detector sets off an alarm that will awaken almost anybody. If you suspect a CO leak from your gas furnace, you can call your local gas company and they will come to your house, check and test the flame/burning, and fix the air/fuel mixture if it is not correct. A gas furnace flame should be blue and not yellow or white or black in color. This service is usually a no charge service, but there are companies that will come clean your furnace and adjust it for a reasonable charge. Make sure they also check the chimney for excessive tar accumulation, which can result in chimney fires. CO2 or Carbon Dioxide is a harmless, odorless gas and the major component of the air you breath.

dryer leaking carbon monoxide?




Friendly G


we have a dryer and washing in a small room and when we go near it, there is a slight scent of CO1. does the dryer need to be replaced or is it something with the hose?


Answer
Carbon monoxide is oderless, which is why they sell CO detectors. Do you perhaps mean natural gas? It is a gas dryer not an electric dryer?

Locate the gas shut off valve. Off is when the handle is perpendicular to the pipe.

You can alternatively contact the fire department. They will make the situation safe at no charge. You should CERTAINLY do this if you have a strong smell.

A plumber can fix the gas leak if it is in a joint in the pipe. If it is a problem with the dryer, then you need an appliance repair person. It could be either, but probably more likely the dryer.

Some repair professionals use soapy water which they brush on joints to find the point of the leak. It will bubble where gas is escaping. I would try a repair person to do this as you will want an expert.




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Why did my carbon monoxide detector go off?




Shell c


My digital carbon monoxide detector went off and it read GAS. So, I called the gas company and they sent out an emergency technician. He checked my stove, oven, furnace, outside meter. Everything! He checked for gas leaks and carbon monoxide but nothing showed up. He said everything was fine. So, why did my alarm go off? I bought a new one and it hasn't went off.


Answer
Sometimes it's just due to a weak battery or even dust that builds up on the detector. Most of the time its a false alarm but alway better to be safe then sorry. I have went on many 911 calls for a co detector going off and it's usually a false alarm due to a weak battery or malfunction. Batteries should be changed at least every 6 months and the detectors cleaned. This is for both co detectors and smoke detectors. Hope this helped.

My Gram's carbon monoxide detector is going off...?

Q. She and her assistant have changed the batteries like twice...i'm about to go over there. She doesn't have a car... Any ideas what it could be?


Answer
She needs to get out of the house until she finds out for sure. Take the detector outside with them because it should turn off if there is no carbon monoxide to set it off. (just in case they think it is defective)

more info from the web.....

What to do if your Carbon Monoxide Detector goes off
What to do and who to you call when your carbon monoxide detector goes into alarm?

The manufacturer of First Alert, the leading brand of carbon monoxide detectors, recommends the following if the alarm goes off:
Turn off appliances, or other sources of combustion at once.
Immediately get fresh air into the premises by opening doors and windows.
Call a qualified technician and have the problem fixed before restarting appliances.
If anyone is experiencing symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning: headaches, dizziness, vomiting, call the fire department and immediately move to a location that has fresh air.
Do a head count to be sure all persons are accounted for.
Do not re-enter the premises until it has been aired out and the problem corrected.

To identify the source/s of carbon monoxide, have a professional check the following :

Gas or oil furnaces are frequently the source of carbon monoxide leaks. Measure concentrations of carbon monoxide in flue gases. Check all connections to flue pipes and venting systems for cracks, gaps, rust, corrosion or debris. Check the filters and filtering systems for dirt and blockages. Check the combustion chamber and heat exchanger for cracks, holes, metal fatigue or corrosion.

Check furnace flame, burners and ignition systems. A predominately yellow, flat, lazy-looking flame in a natural gas furnace indicates fuel is not burning efficiently and is thus releasing higher than usual levels of carbon monoxide. Oil furnaces with a similar problem produce an 'oil' odor, but remember you can't smell, see or taste carbon monoxide.

Chimneys and venting systems must be carefully checked for blockages caused by debris, animal nests, cracks, holes or cave-ins. A blocked chimney or venting system can force dangerous gases back into your home.

Venting and fan systems on all fuel burning appliances must be inspected for proper installation to assure carbon monoxide is vented out rather than in. Don't forget gas water heaters, clothes dryers, space heaters or wood burning stoves.

Inspect fireplaces for blocked or bent chimneys or flues, soot and debris or holes in the chimney that could release carbon monoxide exhaust back into the home.

Stove pilot lights in a closed-up home can be a source of carbon monoxide build-up if not operating properly because they are not vented to the outside. Check to be sure they are operating properly.
Fireplace pilot lights can also produce carbon monoxide and should be checked regularly.
Never burn charcoal inside no matter how much you want to recapture summer and never use your gas stove as a heater. Keep the oven door closed and use it for cooking only.

Never leave a car running in an attached garage even if the garage door is open.

Taking time to understand the characteristics of carbon monoxide and how Underwriters Laboratories, Inc. (UL) listed carbon monoxide detectors work could save your life.

According to UL Standard 2034, home carbon monoxide detectors must sound a warning before carbon monoxide levels reach 100 parts per million over 90 minutes, 200 parts per million over 35 minutes or 400 parts per million over 15 minutes. The standard requires the alarm must sound before an average, heathy adult begins to experience symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning. The warning provides time to evacuate the premises.




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Senin, 19 Mei 2014

Can you recommend a carbon monoxide detector?




Jeremy B


Brand? Price? etc.?


Answer
We use Senco, which was top-rated at the time we bought them. They can sit on a shelf, or attach to a wall and are battery-operated.

Need Help to Choose a Smoke/Carbon Monoxide Detector?




Fred


Hey everyone
I'm moving to a new apartment in Montgomery County (Maryland) and I want to get a new smoke/carbon monoxide detector. I never bought one before and I have no idea which brand is good or anything...
My new house already has a wired smoke detector and I kind of want to upgrade it. It's a one story three-bedroom condo (1000 square feet) and it uses electricity except for the water heater which uses natural gas.
I read a lot of reviews and I know I want to have both smoke detector and carbon monoxide detector. I also want to use hard wire devices with backup battery. I want a smoke detector with dual sensor (Ionization + Photoelectric).
I looked at amazon.com and I found out that all the combo devices (smoke/carbon) only uses Ionization sensors and there isn't any combo device that uses dual sensors for the smoke.
So, in your experience, should I buy two separate detectors (1 dual-sensor smoke + 1 carbon monoxide) or should I only buy a combo detector (smoke/carbon) with a regular Ionization sensor and just forget the Photoelectric sensor?
Also, can you suggest a brand that you know is good?
I don't really care about the price and my main concern is safety.
I really appreciate your helps and suggestions



Answer
"kidde" brand is good..they make a combo smoke / c.o. detecter that just runs on a battery so it can located anywhere,as opposed to having it at an outlet and occupy that outlet.[ that can be inconvenient ]....it has 2 seperate sounds for smoke and c.o. ...it also has a voice that tells you which one its sounding an alarm for.... available at home depot and similar stores........




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My carbon monoxide detector keeps going off, why?




Kelly D


This detector is about 12 years old. The brand is a Kidde Carbon Monoxide Alarm. Well about a week ago it just randomly went off. I changed the batteries, and about an hour later it went off again. Not me nor my parents felt any symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning but we opened all my windows and I shut off the hot water heater thats right across the hall from the detector just to be safe. We just thought its the detector messing up because its so old but we dont know for sure. Anyways the next day after it went off we turned the hot water heater back on and the detector didnt go off untill today which has been a week since it last went off. But we have a newer detector that plugs into the wall right underneath the old one and it hasnt went off. So is the older detector just too old or should I call the fire department! And also has anyone else had trouble like this with their carbon monoxide detector.


Answer
A carbon monoxide detector that is that old is probably malfunctioning. I'd unhook it if you have a newer one installed.

carbon monoxide detector going off?




Sophie I


so itll beep twice and then wait 30 seconds inbetwee. im home alone, i called my dad and he said it was fine so i should ignore it.... help?


Answer
- Replace the battery, if this didn't stop the beeping then take it outside your home and wait 5 minuets.

If the beeping stopped then you have a CO issue inside your home, and if it didn't stop then your CO detector is malfunction and needs replacement.




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what is the best gadget or technology that is made which is related to chemistry?




Chua


please help me...

i need it for my report..

.
.
.i need the gadgets whoch are really rare...



Answer
CO (poison) detectors - should be in every house in case furnace has issues

Sensors

Early designs were basically a white pad which would fade to a brownish or blackish colour if carbon monoxide were present. Such chemical detectors are cheap and widely available, but only give a visual warning of a problem. As carbon monoxide related deaths increased during the 1990s, audible alarms became standard.
The alarm points on carbon monoxide detectors are not a simple alarm level (as in smoke detectors) but are a concentration-time function. At lower concentrations (eg 100 parts per million) the detector will not sound an alarm for many tens of minutes. At 400 parts per million (PPM), the alarm will sound within a few minutes. This concentration-time function is intended to mimic the uptake of carbon monoxide in the body while also preventing false alarms due to relatively common sources of carbon monoxide such as cigarette smoke.
There are four types of sensors available and they vary in cost, accuracy and speed of response.[10] The latter three types include sensor elements that typically last up to 10 years. At least one CO detector is available which includes a battery and sensor in a replaceable module. Most CO detectors do not have replaceable sensors.
[edit]Opto-Chemical
The detector consists of a pad of a coloured chemical which changes colour upon reaction with carbon monoxide. They only provide a qualitative warning of the gas however. The main advantage of these detectors is that they are the lowest cost, but the downside is that they also offer the lowest level of protection.
[edit]Biomimetic
A biomimetic (chem-optical or gel cell) sensor works with a form of synthetic hemoglobin which darkens in the presence of CO, and lightens without it. This can either be seen directly or connected to a light sensor and alarm. Battery lifespan usually lasts 2-3 years. Device lasts on the average of about 10 years. These products were the first to enter the mass market but have now largely fallen out of favour.
[edit]Electrochemical
This is a type of fuel cell that instead of being designed to produce power, is designed to produce a current that is precisely related to the amount of the target gas (in this case carbon monoxide) in the atmosphere. Measurement of the current gives a measure of the concentration of carbon monoxide in the atmosphere. Essentially the electrochemical cell consists of a container, 2 electrodes, connection wires and an electrolyte - typically sulfuric acid. Carbon monoxide is oxidized at one electrode to carbon dioxide while oxygen is consumed at the other electrode. For carbon monoxide detection, the electrochemical cell has advantages over other technologies in that it has a highly accurate and linear output to carbon monoxide concentration, requires minimal power as it is operated at room temperature, and has a long lifetime (typically commercial available cells now have lifetimes of 5 years or greater). Until recently, the cost of these cells and concerns about their long term reliability had limited uptake of this technology in the marketplace, although these concerns are now largely overcome. This technology is now the dominant technology in USA and Europe.
[edit]Semiconductor
Thin wires of the semiconductor tin dioxide on an insulating ceramic base provide a sensor monitored by an integrated circuit. This sensing element needs to be heated to approximately 400 deg C in order to operate. Oxygen increases resistance of the tin dioxide, but carbon monoxide reduces resistance therefore by measurement of the resistance of the sensing element means a monitor can be made to trigger an alarm. The power demands of this sensor means that these devices can only be mains powered although a pulsed sensor is now available that has a limited lifetime (months) as a battery powered detector. Device usually lasts on the average of 5-10 years. This technology has traditionally found high utility in Japan and the far east with some market penetration in USA. However the superior performance of electrochemical cell technology is beginning to displace this technology

Is it safe to use a natural gas oven to heat a house?




funkybass4


are the fumes dangerous?


Answer
no
Carbon monoxide is a lot like an elusive criminal -- it's highly dangerous and you can't see or smell it. In fact, it's often called "the silent killer."


You can protect your family from the dangers of this deadly gas by taking preventive measures and by learning to recognize the symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Check out the following safety tips to keep your home safe from the build up of dangerous carbon monoxide. If you need more information about carbon monoxide poisoning and prevention, call the Poison Control Center at 1-800-POISON-1 (1-800-764-7661).

Traditionally, few people have considered gas ovens to be a major source of carbon monoxide (CO), even though all their exhaust products are often vented directly into the indoor air of a residence. Yet unvented space heaters with a similar output of combustion gases have been banned in many states because of indoor air quality (IAQ) dangers inherent in their use.

CO poisoning in homes is generally the most serious of the wide variety of IAQ problems, in that people can die quickly from it, whereas most other such problems can be considered chronic. Weatherization personnel must perform a variety of combustion safety tests to determine if CO is being produced by any of the combustion appliances in a residence. If they find dangerously high levels, the crew should know how to fix the problem.


CO and Its Effects

Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless, nonirritating, but highly toxic, gas. It is flammable and slightly lighter than air. It is produced whenever there is incomplete combustion of hydrocarbon fuels--that is, when there is insufficient air to burn the fuel completely. The highest concentrations of CO typically occur at start-up of the appliance. This is especially true of ovens, because little or no air can flow through the oven until the air inside it heats and rises out of the exhaust vent.

High levels of CO cause headaches, nausea, shortness of breath, dizziness, confusion, brain damage, and, in severe cases, death. CO strangles the victim by reducing the amount of oxygen that can get to cells and impairing the body's usage of oxygen even if it reaches the cellular level. Victims should be removed from the exposure, though symptoms often persist well after removal from the source. That is because the so-called half life of CO in blood--the time for the peak concentration to decline to half its original value--is about four hours.

Often the symptoms are similar to those of flu. People who may have been exposed to CO should go to the hospital for a simple blood test. Another option is to check carboxyhemoglobin levels in the blood using a breath CO detector. A relatively inexpensive ($95) attachment is now available for Bacharach MONOXOR II carbon monoxide monitors, which are widely used for combustion safety testing.

Symptoms are related to the exposure level and time of exposure. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends that a person should not breathe CO concentrations of 9 parts per million (ppm) or higher for any eight-hour period; 35 ppm or higher for any one-hour period; or 200 ppm or higher at any one time. Moreover, a person should not be exposed to any one of these three conditions more than once per year. The World Health Organization and Health Canada recommend a maximum exposure of 25 ppm for a one-hour period. ASHRAE Standard 62-1989 recommends an exposure limit of no more than 9 ppm in a living space, and Japan has an indoor standard that limits exposure to 10 ppm for any duration.

Recommended Oven CO Test Protocol

All gas and propane ovens should be tested for combustion safety, since they can be a major source of carbon monoxide (CO).
Test the oven in its as-found condition (do not clean or adjust) before starting any weatherization.
Use an electronic CO meter with a range of 0 ppm-2,000 ppm and a resolution of 1 ppm, such as the Bacharach MONOXOR II. Older nonelectronic meters or diffusion tubes are not suitable.
Zero the CO meter. This is typically done outdoors in a rural or unpolluted area. Do not rezero for individual houses. Calibrate the meter with 10 ppm and 500 ppm calibration gas about every six months (check zero at this time).
Turn the kitchen exhaust hood on, if one exists, to avoid exposing test personnel to potential CO.
Insert the CO meter probe tip well into the oven exhaust vent (typically an opening about 1 in high by 5 in wide centered in the back dial section on the top of the stove). The intent is to monitor the exhaust gases inside the oven exhaust before they are outside the oven and diluted with air.
Turn the meter on and then turn the oven on bake at 350deg.F with the oven door closed.
Watch the CO meter reading rise and record the peak or maximum reading. It should typically reach a peak within about 5 to 10 minutes and then begin to drop back down again to a steady value after a much longer time.
If the peak value is less than 100 ppm, the oven is not producing elevated levels of CO and need not be tuned or adjusted. Weatherization can continue.
If the peak value is greater than 100 ppm, turn the oven off. It is producing elevated levels of CO that could cause adverse health effects. It needs to be cleaned, tuned, or otherwise adjusted prior to or in conjunction with any air tightening of the dwelling.
If aluminum foil is lining the oven bottom, it needs to be removed or perforated along its edges so the secondary air holes in the oven bottom are not blocked. Such blockage is a major cause of high CO levels.
If the CO levels are still above 100 ppm after removing or fixing the foil, or if no foil is present, clean or tune the oven.
After the oven has completely cooled (at least 30 minutes with the oven off and the oven door open), turn the oven back on. Recheck the peak CO level in the oven exhaust gases.
Continue to adjust and recheck the peak exhaust CO level until it is below 100 ppm; only then continue with weatherization. Almost all ovens can be satisfactorily tuned in the field.
If, after repeated tuning attempts, the CO levels are still elevated, call the oven manufacturer. A few models cannot be satisfactorily tuned.
If the occupants complain of headaches, nausea, flulike symptoms, or worse, or if a home CO detector alarm has gone off recently, measure the occupants' CO blood levels with a breathalizer or recommend that the occupants get a blood test immediately at a hospital. Turn off all combustion appliances.
In extreme cases, it may be advisable to measure the maximum steady CO level in the kitchen air. After oven start-up it typically takes at least an hour to reach that level in loose dwellings and may take upwards of 8 to10 hours in very tight homes.
Consider giving any client whose dwelling has any type of CO combustion appliance, or at least those whose oven was not satisfactory, a home CO detector. Types with an LED readout are preferable (see "Conservation Clips: CO Detectors Not Created Equal" p. 63).
Two important caveats:

(1) This protocol does not apply to convection ovens, which have been known to blow hot air full of CO into the auditor's face. (2) A separate protocol needs to be developed for testing stove burners. In both cases, the indoor CO level should be tested.

Field Test Findings

Excessive carbon monoxide production from combustion appliances and CO poisoning are much more common than has previously been recognized. Among 25 homes with gas ovens tested in an ongoing survey by Montana Power Company's Low-Income Weatherization Program in Kalispell, Montana, CO concentration in the kitchen was found to be greater than 9 ppm in the cooking area in every case.

At Portland State University (PSU), my group measured IAQ in 23 low-income homes. One-third had ovens that caused levels in the cooking area to exceed the eight-hour 9 ppm standard after 20 minutes. However, 10 of the 23 cases showed CO levels increasing with time. (CO levels from the oven operation were monitored at 3, 10, and 20 minutes after turning on the oven.) That indicated the need to go back and continue testing over a longer time period. Most of the apartments or homes were fairly small and apparently leaky, demonstrating that leaky dwellings, as well as tight ones, are vulnerable.

In the few cases where CO released from stoves has been monitored, the stoves probably were not left on long enough to reach the maximum CO levels in the kitchen air. We conducted a follow-up study in Portland to determine just how long it takes to reach steady-state conditions (maximum indoor CO levels). Sixty ovens were monitored in two relatively leaky apartment buildings with the oven set on broil and the oven door closed. Half of the readings were over 9 ppm, and 15% were over the one-hour 35 ppm standard level.

The minimum time for an oven to reach maximum CO levels in the surrounding air was 20 minutes, but the average was 45 minutes to 60 minutes. Reaching equilibrium in that short a time implies that the apartments were very leaky, as was the case. Had they been much more airtight, it could have taken many hours to reach steady-state conditions, though the steady-state level would be higher than that in the leakier units. Tight homes also tend to have higher indoor CO levels from long-term oven operation.

The study also found that CO levels in the exhaust ports can indicate potential IAQ problems. In the field tests, about 40% of the ovens had CO production levels in excess of 50 ppm in their undiluted exhaust port at the time of the maximum CO reading in the kitchen air; the highest reading was over 2,000 ppm, and the average was 100 ppm. Ovens should be tuned if the steady-state CO levels in their undiluted exhaust gases is above about 25 ppm. Higher exhaust concentrations can produce indoor air readings above 9 ppm, with consequent adverse health effects.

Other field tests have corroborated the studies in Montana and Oregon. One low-income home I tested in Philadelphia had a CO level of 330 ppm in the kitchen air after only five minutes of oven operation! Similar problems were found with hundreds of homes in a study directed by Bruce Davis as part of low-income weatherization efforts in Arkansas. In almost every case the excess CO levels in the oven exhaust ports were reduced to below about 25 ppm after the oven was cleaned or adjusted.

It is particularly important to recognize that gas ovens are used as either the main or a supplemental space heating source in numerous U.S. homes, especially low-income homes. Two medical studies have indicated that 40%-50% of all urban low-income dwellings are heated with their ranges. It would seem reasonable that a similarly large fraction of nonurban low-income dwellings are heated in the same way. Given that about half of the ranges in the United States are gas or propane fired, and that about 20% of the U.S. population is classified as low-income, the potential problem is enormous.

The evidence suggests as much. In a recent study of the factors setting off CO detector alarms after their use was mandated in Chicago, stoves (either stove burners or ovens) were deemed responsible in 78% of the cases. At one Kentucky hospital, when patients coming into the emergency room with flulike symptoms were given blood tests, about 25% were found to have CO poisoning. These limited test results indicate that combustion appliance operation is often unacceptable. Monitoring for safety should be the first priority for weatherization crews.



Oven Repair

There is very little information readily available on how to adjust, clean, or otherwise tune an oven that is producing excessive levels of CO. However, experience in Arkansas with more than 300 ovens and in a PSU research project indicates that the following items should be checked:

Primary air adjustment--check the shutter opening. This is very important.
Fuel orifice size. The size will be different for liquified petroleum (LP) and natural gas.
Oven supply pressure. It is usually best to maintain the value stamped on the plate--usually 3.5-4.5 in of water (870-1,100 Pa) for natural gas and 9-11 in (2,200-2,700 Pa) for LP. Also check rated heat input on the plate and ensure that the orifice and pressure combination provides that input.
Secondary air path. Secondary air holes should be cleaned or cleared; pay special attention to the presence of aluminum foil lining the bottom of the oven and covering the secondary air holes.
Burner and pilot. These should be cleaned.
The good news is that most ovens can easily be repaired so that they emit little or no CO in the exhaust port, typically below 100 ppm peak or 25 ppm steady state. Ovens are basically simple devices, and repair tools cost little. A Dwyer, Ritchie, Bacharach, or other brand U-tube manometer to measure the gas pressure should cost between $10 and $40. A small brass wire brush, flair wrenches, and an asbestos glove are used for tuning as well.

Kitchen Exhaust Fans

Ventilating combustion products directly out of the kitchen eliminates the opportunity for them to affect occupants. This would get rid of CO and also oxides of nitrogen that are always present. These pollutants are a special concern in tight houses.

Kitchen fans are generally noisy, in part because they have relatively high flow rates. If they are too noisy, people will be reluctant to use them. Thus in selecting an exhaust fan to install in an existing home, look for one that is relatively quiet. It may require a fan with a somewhat lower capacity, but that is probably a good tradeoff. It's better to have a lower-power fan that is used than a high-power one that isn't. One fairly quiet option for retrofitting a fan into an existing home is remote installation: an axial fan that is rated for greasy air can be installed in an attic.

Finally, it is important to educate clients about the need to use their kitchen exhaust fan (if one exists) whenever the range is operating. Often people think that the only reason to use it is to get rid of cooking odors. Using fans can help reduce indoor pollutant concentrations by removing the pollutants at their source.

Whether or not an exhaust fan exists, safety tests should be performed in any home with combustion appliances, particularly before any weatherization efforts are undertaken. These simple tests have the potential to eliminate a serious safety problem.




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