Carbon Monoxide detector went off?

delia

My CO detector went off, but the voice said 0 PPM. It's only a month old. On the ceiling in the finished basement. It's not near any lights. It's in a separate room as the furnace.
Should I be concerned?

Add info: I bought it because a very old one I had in that spot went off. I called 911, the firemen closed the windows (I opened them when it went off) turned up the thermostats; said they couldn't find any readings and told me to buy a new one.

The CO detector is up again and hasn't gone off again. Should I call 911?
Thank you for your responses STEVEN F and adam/penny. I will look for someone to come out and test. It was weird it went off the one time saying go to fresh air 0 PPM, but for no reason. And 0 PPM is nothing, so that's why I came here to ask.
When the firemen came that day they went right up to the running furnace and got nothing. I don't know where else the problem could come from.

Anyway, thank you again. You are both very helpful.

Answer
most of us don't realize it but those detectors come in different co2 detection modes..
i had a similar problem with a new one i bought that went off frequently and after having service people come out to the house they were unable to detect anything wrong. however they said the detector i had purchased was set too low and that's why it went off.
that one cost me over $100.00 for the guys to come out and check.

how can i test carbon monoxide levels in my house?

toddc2004

Answer
There are many home carbon monoxide detectors that have digital displays showing the ppm of carbon monoxide. Here's just one of many:

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Carbon Monoxide Detectors?

RoRo

I live in a 2 story home and I was wondering where you were supposed to or the most ideal place is to put a carbon monoxide detector? I currently have it in the basement but I'm afraid that if it starts going off we may not hear it on the 2nd floor.

Answer
They should be mounted near bedrooms and living areas. It is recommended you install one on each floor.It is not recommended that you install them in garages, kitchens or furnace rooms. Installation in these areas could lead to nuisance alarms and may expose the sensor to substances that could damage the unit or contaminate it or may not be heard by persons in the home. Read this from the manual.I have mine plugged into a receptacle about 12 to 16 in. from the floor. BTW: The one I have plugged into the receptacle does have a battery backup,they all do in case the power goes out.

carbon monoxide?

Shelby L

I have a health condition that results in me having constant headaches, but for the last 2 weeks my husband has been complaining about headaches and was sick to his stomach last night and i got a bloody nose for the first time in 15 years this morning. i was wondering if this could be due to carbon monoxide poisioning. i know the headaches are a syptom but what about the rest? i know i should buy a test but there is a huge storm here and i don't want to drive.

Answer
if you suspect CO, then you definitely should open a few windows, at least a bit.

Also purchasing a co detector is definately a good idea, but be sure to plug it into an outlet close to the floor.

seriously, CO is definitely not something to play around with..
My uncle died from CO poisoning, started the car in the garage to get warm, and accidentally fell asleep....

So, open a window, if that helps, you should get a detector. put it near your furnace if you have one that runs on propane/natural gas.

IF it is detected, then you should get a technician to come and look at your furnace, as CO is caused by incomplete combustion, not enough air for the fire, and could also be symptom of blocked/malfunctioning flue/chimney

IF you do not have a combustion furnace, its not particularly likely that you would have alot of CO in your house.

The quick answer? open a window a bit, get some fresh air, although if its -20 C or so like it is here, dont open it to much :D

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Carbon monoxide...when to go to hospital?

TheWife

Okay...I know this was reeeallyyyy stupid, but at the time neither I nor my husband thought about it. We put a couple of charcoal in our oven to cook some ribs this afternoon. About 20 minutes ago the carbon monoxide detector went off. We threw out the coals and opened the doors, we also have a huge fan blowing air toward the door. The detector stopped beeping but I'm still worried, I don't know much about carbon monoxide. I feel kinda dizzy and short of breath but I think it may just be from anxiety because it didn't start until after the detector went off. How dangerous can this be? Since the coals are outside do you think the monoxide will go out quickly now? Should we go get checked out? Thanks a bunch...and yes again, I know it was stupid. We won't be doing it again.
Ultimately I know it can kill you...but just in severe cases right?

Answer
Carbon Monoxide is dangerous because your red blood cells have a 200 time greater affinity for it than oxygen, and once it latches on, it takes a significant period of time for it to let go. Your red blood cells are supposed to be transporting oxygen TO your organs, and carbon DIoxide from your organs to exhaled from the lungs.It is not TOXIC. It simply takes up space on your blood cells that should be occupied by oxygen. Being pregnant doesn't change that. In fact, thanks to your pregnancy, you have more of those red blood cells circulating through your veins. If you aren't adversely affected by the CO, your fetus would not be. The danger is that CO poisoning is cumulative. If this were from a leak in your car or home for example, and you were exposed for several hours every day to and from work, the effects would rapidly add up. Since you have quickly identified the source, and it won't recur, your exposure is limited. In fact, as a medic, working in a fire station, I'm exposed to more CO on a regular basis, IN the firehouse, than you probably were tonite thanks to your CO detector.

Now, carbon monoxide detectors are VERY SENSITIVE by design. They alarm at levels that are a minute portion of what could cause a problem. If you immediately opened the windows and are ventilating the home, from the identifiable source which has a definate ending, the likelihood you have received a dose sufficent to seriously sicken you is low. If you are still concerned, you can call your local Fire Station and ask to have them come measure your exposure level. Every engine should have a digital readout CO detector. If you don't have the # to them, look for the non-emergency number for your local 911 call center in the phonebook.

Signs and symptoms of CO poisoning don't get into shortness of breath and dizziness until you have high levels which isn't likely given the scenario you outline. Early symptoms include nausea, headache, disorientation (confusion) and unexplained sleepiness (not to be confused with the kind that comes on from a full belly of ribs). If you start having these symptoms, you should seek medical treatment immediately because unconciousness generally precedes shortness of breath which is why people die. They just get sleepy and become disoriented because their brain isn't getting the oxygen it needs. While they are unconcious, they stop breathing.

Seems like you've done the exactly right thing so far and I would leave the windows open with the fan on as long as it's safe to do so until you go to bed. Carbon Monoxide dissipates quickly in the face of ventilation. This is why you can only be poisoned in enclosed spaces. IMPORTANT: CO dectectors are one time use, not like smoke detectors. You need to go get a new one asap. It may work again, but unless it specifically states it's for multiple uses, you should replace it. There are many reliable low-cost detectors available.

I applaud you for having one to begin with! Not everyone does. It saved your life! Without it you wouldn't have known you had made that mistake! Good luck. You should be fine. Just keep yourselves under observation for the next day or so and get a new sensor. And if you can't sleep til you know for sure, call out the the local fire company for a measure.

My carbon monoxide detector keep going off?

kevin

So this morning I woke up and it started to beep. I tried to switch batteries and now it beeps once every twelve or so seconds.

Answer
Periodic beeping or chirping, rather than a continuous alarm, is indicative of a problem with the detector itself rather than a carbon monoxide problem. Assuming the battery you put in was good and properly connected, then it could be the detector has reached its end of life (they're only good for 5-7 years, depending on make and model).

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What does the chirping from my carbon monoxide detector mean?

lizzy_sama

I just came home from visiting my relatives for Christmas, and the carbon monoxide detector in my bedroom is chirping. It's only a little beep every once in a while. I pressed the reset button and opened the window anyway, and it hasn't made any noise since. Did the chirping mean it needs new batteries or is that the alarm?
Don't be a snarky jerk Renpen, I live in an apartment and have no control over the smoke and carbon monoxide detectors; they were already installed when I moved in and are hardwired so I can't change them. Thanks to anyone who was ACTUALLY helpful.

Answer
Usually the chirping is an indication that the batteries need replacing but in an older unit it may mean the unit's sensor chemical is depleted and the unit itself should be replaced. I would simply replace the unit at this point

Carbon monoxide alarms went off?

Alexis

I randomly came down with a stomach bug yesterday morning, stopped vomiting around 3pm. Around 10am I heard a chirp...I have a smoke detector as well as 2 carbon detectors. I was busy throwing up, so I didn't check them til later, figured it was a bad battery. I was looking at one carbon alarm, and then heard the one on the wall. They aren't fancy, they just chirp...no digital reading, etc. I replaced the batteries to the one on the wall, it chirped 3 fast times and then did nothing. The other had one of those D batteries, so I just reset it...hasn't chirped. I have a gas heater, however the only thing it is currently used for is heating the water..our stove and dryer is electric, and we only use air conditioning right now. Should I be concerned until I hear them go off again? The detector on the wall was manufactured in 2009, so not completely new. My fiancé feels fine, my stomach issues have subsided since yesterday afternoon. Besides that I haven't had any unusual bouts of headaches or fatigue (I'm practically a night owl). I've never had carbon monoxide alarms...so I'm not sure.

Answer
If new batteries, take them, it, out and replace. Make sure the contacts are touching the correct points on the CO detector. replace the cap/lid and press the button (if there isn't one and it is old, get rid). It should give off a shrill tone. Release the button and it should be quiet, if it still "chirps", it is no good.
Please dont risk your life for the sake of a £10.00 detector.

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my carbon monoxide detector reads 2ppm in my wearhouse when my forklift trucks are running is this safe?

CHARLES

Answer
If it truly is only 2 ppm then you are within the limits of OSHA which has established a 50 PPM limit for the workplace.... But be careful of the testing device you are using. Some devices use a different unit of measure. The safest concentration is zero.
Some detection devices only measure concentrations of 1,000 parts per million and higher, significantly above safe levels. Testing equipment should be capable of sensing levels as low as one part per million. For example, Underwriters Laboratories' standard for residential carbon monoxide detectors requires detectors to alarm before 90 minutes of exposure to 100 parts per million of carbon monoxide.

If initial readings don't reveal sufficient concentrations of carbon monoxide to set off the alarm, digital measurement testing equipment that produces a printed 24-hour record can be used to help identify the source.

Sources of carbon monoxide in the home?

no

I moved into a new home a little over a year ago and have been having on going problems with mild/ moderate levels of Carbon monoxide in my home. I have severl CO detecters in my home, one as part of the smoke detector system and then several wall mounts. the alarm will sound when the level reaches 50 and it goes off when I have closed the windows for a length of time. This is about once every few months. The wall mount detector has a window to register peak levels and it ussually reads 10 -27. it does not alarm until it hits 30 though. I know that those are low levels but still worrisome. and need to find the source. soon after moving in we had significant levels of co in the house and required medical care. At that time I had someone go through the house, test it, and make repairs. The problem is still there though. My home has a wood burning stove which is hardly ever used, a propane gas oven and range, and for heat and hot water we use heating fuel to run a boiler. I do live in a eemote area with limited support services. Question: what are the sources of CO and how do I check for it? Any advice on how to deal with a home with low levels of CO in it. I can not leave the windows open 24/7 and that is what I am having to do now. Should we see a physician again and if so what tests should we request?
I am in northern Alaska so my house is very weatherized. Maybe to well it seems.

i was not able to get a tif detector but am using the wall co monitior to test around the house. it has a backup battery with ac plug. will it take readings with just the battery? also do you know how to rest the peak level on the Kidee wall mount CO detector?

Thanks all for the help and ideas

Answer
If everything is vented or working properly your co readings should be zero. Long term effects will cause fatigue, headaches, and a number of other ailments. Sources of co could be many or few depending on the home and appliances. Pilot lights on older gas stoves, furnaces, water heaters and dryers if not vented properly or are malfunctioning causing a larger than average flame can emit a substantial amount of co. Newer appliances often have electronic ignitiers with no pilot lights. Gas grills, running cars, lawn mowers, weed eaters, chain saws, anything that runs on a fuel can cause co. Maybe you can borrow a hydrocabon detector (Tif) from a heating contractor. A Tif detector will detect ppm levels of hydrocarbons (meaning leaking propane or natural gas) in addition to Carbon Monoxide. You would wave it around appliances, pipes, regulators, tanks, etc and it will detect and help you pinpoint problem areas. A new Tif detector is around $200. Maybe you could find one on ebay inexpensively. Maybe by placing co detectors near each possible problem appliance you could zero in on the source or sources of the CO. I wish you much luck.

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Smoke Detectors Question?

kasmira25

I just moved into a whole house and have noticed that there is one non working old as dirt smoke detector in the kitchen and non anywhere else in the house.

How many smoke detectors do i need?
I live in upstate NY
The house has a full unfinished basement, first floor,second floor with 4 bedrooms and bathroom, unfinished attic.
Gas heat and stove- so do i need a carbon monoxide detector?
I have two small children
The house is not new, its an older victorian

Any info would be helpful as to the amount and placement!! Thank you!

Answer
Not sure what the laws are regarding them, but I will give you best practices.

There should be at least one smoke detector and one carbon monoxide detector on each level of the home.

Each bedroom should have it's own smoke detector, preferably near the door to catch any smoke entering from the hallway.

Don't put a smoke detector in the kitchen due to nuisance alarms, but it's a good idea to have one nearby.

So I would recommend 8 smoke alarms and 3 CO detectors. If you want you can substitute 3 CO/smoke combo detectors.

Put one in each bedroom, one in the main hall on the second floor, two on the main floor, and one or two in the basement depending how big it is.

Is carbon monoxide heavier than air?

DudePIE

Answer
NO. It has nearly the same density as air. (Note the first answer confuses carbon dioxide with carbon monoxide.)

If you're concerned about where to place your CO detector, location doesn't matter. In a room, all gases will tend to mix due to convection, it would take a perfectly still room under controlled circumstances to "layer" different gases. Most alarms are placed high because when there is a fire, the hot gases tend to rise. One of the most common sources of CO is some kind of combustion appliance e.g. heater so again it tends to be hotter and rise. The key points are to have at least one on every floor, to place them in the center of the room so they can measure the general level of CO, and for extra safety to have one 15 feet away from any potential CO sources like a gas burning appliance (not right next to it!).

For more info on placement of CO detectors, pls see these URLs which I got by searching "where place CO detector", they come from authoritative sources such as fire safety sites.

Jolo

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Is there a way to check for fumes in car (Toyota 4 runner)?

Think abou

I'm a 5 foot 95 pound female and drive a 1999 Toyota 4 runner with about 220,000 miles. I have to fill up the tank every 190 miles (used to be 220 a few years ago). I get the oil changed like clockwork every 3 months and all that.

A problem I have is that there's a faint fume odor in the car. I'm used to it but anyone who gets in comments on it. Also even though the ac is turned off there's a continuous blow of air that actually comes from somewhere just under the steering wheel - I cover it with a cloth sometimes because I'm short and its annoying how it just blows in my face. I don't know if its clean air, circulated, fom the engine area or what.

I've noticed that I get sleepy and drowsy when I drive. Maybe its my imagination but I wonder if I'm being exposed to carbon monoxide or other dangerous fumes. Sometimes I roll my window down to get outside air circulation which I hate since its noisy and dusty in Los Angeles and still I have o pull over for coffee or power naps.

Is there any way to check the air quality in the car and find out what to do about it? I can't afford to go to the dealership or Toyota specialist for fancy expensive maintenance work. I've driven the car since 2000 or 2001 when it had 30,000 miles on it so I don't know if I've screwed it up somewhere along the line. I gave my weight and size because maybe I'm more sensitive compared to guys to any fumes that might be considered normal, I'd hate to sell the car but don't want to endanger my health either so I just want to know what's going on.
Yes I have awful headaches too but thought its from my Botox injections.

Answer
Hahah... does she do laundry.... no need, fumes affect anyone, they sell carbon monoxide detectors in so many ways.. i mean some that test quality, some measure monoxide and some that respond too late. walmart or hardware.. I think you might have a going bad o2 sensor and should check your exhaust. but air from cabin is from underneath wipers and theres a switch to control if you want the inside air circulated or if you want it to come from outside in your heating and cooling switch box. the exhaust off a vehicle go straight down the exhaust manifold. try youtube search basics of an engine.... scan codes for free at autozone or advanced auto.

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Need Help to Choose a Smoke/Carbon Monoxide Detector?

Fred

Hey everyone
I'm moving to a new apartment in Montgomery County (Maryland) and I want to get a new smoke/carbon monoxide detector. I never bought one before and I have no idea which brand is good or anything...
My new house already has a wired smoke detector and I kind of want to upgrade it. It's a one story three-bedroom condo (1000 square feet) and it uses electricity except for the water heater which uses natural gas.
I read a lot of reviews and I know I want to have both smoke detector and carbon monoxide detector. I also want to use hard wire devices with backup battery. I want a smoke detector with dual sensor (Ionization + Photoelectric).
I looked at amazon.com and I found out that all the combo devices (smoke/carbon) only uses Ionization sensors and there isn't any combo device that uses dual sensors for the smoke.
So, in your experience, should I buy two separate detectors (1 dual-sensor smoke + 1 carbon monoxide) or should I only buy a combo detector (smoke/carbon) with a regular Ionization sensor and just forget the Photoelectric sensor?
Also, can you suggest a brand that you know is good?
I don't really care about the price and my main concern is safety.
I really appreciate your helps and suggestions

Answer
"kidde" brand is good..they make a combo smoke / c.o. detecter that just runs on a battery so it can located anywhere,as opposed to having it at an outlet and occupy that outlet.[ that can be inconvenient ]....it has 2 seperate sounds for smoke and c.o. ...it also has a voice that tells you which one its sounding an alarm for.... available at home depot and similar stores........

Carbon monoxide detector says 13... is this safe?

laura

I read somewhere that 1-70 you could expieriance fatigue, vomiting, dizzyness, ect. but it's not deadly. is this true? how do you get the carbon monoxide levels to go down? any help on this would be great, thanks!

Answer
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/466.html

Standard for Action Levels
The following action levels have been defined as minimums for BPI certified Carbon Monoxide Analysts. Analysts may work for a government agency or business entity that has adopted more stringent standards than the ones defined in this document. As such, CO Analysts may enforce those higher standards. Under no circumstances shall a BPI certified CO Analyst recognize less stringent standards or ignore conditions in excess of the defined action levels. The action levels are considered net indoor ambient readings - i.e. - indoor ambient minus outdoor ambient readings.

0 to 9 parts per million (ppm)
Normal - No Action: Typical from: outdoor sources, fumes from attached garages, heavy smoking, fireplace spillage and operation of unvented combustion appliances. With ambient conditions in this range, analysts may continue testing sequences.

10 to 35 parts per million (ppm)
Marginal: This level could become problematic in some situations. Actions: Occupants should be advised of a potential health hazard to small children, elderly people and persons suffering from respiratory or heart problems. If the home has an attached garage, document CO levels in garage. Accept this level as normal for unvented appliances but not for vented appliances. If unvented appliances are in operation, recommend additional ventilation in the areas of operation. With ambient conditions in this range, analysts may continue testing to locate the CO source.

36 to 99 parts per million (ppm)
Excessive: Medical Alert. Conditions must be mitigated. Actions: Ask occupants to step outside and query about health symptoms. Advise occupants to seek medical attention. If occupants exhibit any symptoms of CO poisoning, have someone drive them to a medical facility. Enter the building, open doors and windows to ventilate the structure. Turn off all combustion appliances until the CO level has been reduced to safe levels. If forced air equipment is available, continuos operation of the air handler is recommended at this time. If the home has an attached garage, document CO levels in garage. Test combustion appliances one at a time to determine the source of CO production. If an appliance is determined to be the source of CO production, it should be shut off and not used until a qualified technician with proper test equipment can service it.

100 - 200 parts per million (ppm)
Dangerous: Medical Alert. Emergency conditions exist. Actions: Evacuate the building immediately and check occupants for health symptoms. Advise all occupants to seek medical attention. Occupants should have someone else drive them to a medical facility. If occupants exhibit symptoms of CO poisoning, emergency service personnel must be called. Evacuation is important, but Analysts must not subject themselves to excessive conditions. Maximum exposure time is 15 minutes. Open all doors and windows that can be done quickly. If the home has an attached garage, document CO levels in garage. Disable combustion appliance operation. Continually monitor indoor ambient levels while moving through the building. Once the atmosphere within the structure has returned to safe levels and the appliances have been turned back on, locate the source of CO production for corrective measures.

Greater than 200 parts per million (ppm)
Dangerous: Medical Alert. Emergency conditions exist. Actions: Evacuate the building immediately and check occupants for health symptoms. Advise all occupants to seek medical attention. Occupants should have someone else drive them to medical facility. If occupants exhibit symptoms of CO poisoning, emergency service personnel must be called. Evacuation is important, but analysts must not subject themselves to these conditions. Do not stay inside or re-enter the building until conditions have dropped below 100 ppm. Open all doors and windows that can be done quickly without entering the structure. Call the local utility to shut off gas supply (if applicable and necessary). If the home has an attached garage, document CO levels in garage if possible to do so without being subjected to high levels of CO. Once the atmosphere within the structure has returned to safe levels, restore fuel supply to appliances. Operate and test the appliances one at a time to determine the source of CO production.

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carbon monoxide detectors which is best ?

patrick h

i would like to know what brand of carbon monoxide detector to buy
and which is the best, and what are normal ranges of carbon monoxide, when do the levels become dangerous ? i know that they put a digital reader on the vent and found that i was reading 2 so i guess that there are some low levels ?

Answer
I feel that probably the best CO detector for home use is the Nighthawk. Safe levels are determined by exposure time.The instructions with the unit should explain this.

NightHawk Carbon Monoxide/Gas detector?

Mommy t

Why is our detector randomly going off? We live in a condo unit, and the Gas alarm just went off but then when we reset it it was fine. It's gone off before when I've been cooking too. We only have electric heat and power, so no propane to make it go off.....is it just being buggy?

I placed this here because people are very helpful and I got no answers from home and garden.

Answer
When ours did that it was just as simple as changing the battery.

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What does it mean when a first alert carbon monoxide detector starts blinking a green light?

Wesley

Answer
From what I can tell, the alarm does this any time it starts back up due to a power surge, power outage, etc... Here is some info from First Alert's website;

http://www.firstalert.com/faqs/co-alarm/on-my-first-alert-plug-in-carbon-monoxide-detector-why-is-the-green-power-light-flashing

Here is the FAQ from their website regarding the red light flashing;

http://www.firstalert.com/faqs/co-alarm/why-does-the-red-light-flash-on-my-carbon-monoxide-alarm-do-i-have-co

And lastly, here's how you can replace your owner's manual, which will probably have more info that what I was able to find online;

http://www.firstalert.com/faqs/smoke-alarms/i-lost-my-first-alert-smoke-alarm-owners-manual-how-can-i-get-a-new-one

Lastly, you can punch in your alarm's model number and do a google search, and should be able to find an owner's manual online. Example: First Alert <model number> Carbon Monoxide Detector Manual. Google that, and you should be set.

Good luck!

I have a nighthawk carbon monoxide detector, I have no idea what those digital numbers are for?

dreamer236

I was cooking in the kitchen today and I notice the number got up to 9 but the alarm did not go off. I just want to know about these numbers, I have no idea how far the numbers go. I thank you for your help.

Answer
If you can't find the manual, try looking up your model on the internet. The numbers *may* indicate parts per million of CO detected. It takes 1000ppm to cause unconsciousness in an hour, so 9ppm isn't good, but it is considered "normal" background CO.

Take a look at http://www.nfpa.org/itemDetail.asp?categoryID=280&itemID=18270&URL=Research+&+Reports/Fact+sheets/Home+safety/Carbon+monoxide+poisoning&cookie%5Ftest=1 for additional information.

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I have a gas water heater outside - do I need a carbon monoxide detector?

Carol L

Answer
When you are burning indoors any type of liquid or solid fuel for heating, cooking or other use, you should have an active carbon monoxide detector installed in your home.

If you have fuel-burning appliances on more than one level of your home, you should have a carbon monoxide detector on each floor. For example, if you have a gas range on the main floor and a wood-burning fireplace on the lower level, you should have detectors on each of these floors.

Such fuel-burning appliances are generally tested and safe to use, but should there be a clogged vent line or any part of the appliance that becomes faulty, it could release hazardous levels of carbon monoxide in your home and death can occur within minutes. But you can keep your family safe by using a carbon monoxide detector which can alert you to the presence of this silent toxic gas.

If you work regularly on running vehicles in a closed garage, you should also consider installing a unit in that area.

Carbon Monoxide Readings... deadly? Please read!?

KaDy

Hi, My carbon monoxide detector said 11 about an hour ago, The pilot light went out on the gas fireplace. Is 11 bad? I have animals in my house and I want to make sure they are going to be okay. The detector says 0 now.

Answer
The carbon monoxide seems to be coming from the gas fireplace since carbon monoxide is produced by the incomplete burning(combustion) of solid, liquid, and gaseous fuels.If you smoke a couple of cigarettes, or someone had been smoking a cigar in the last hour, you could hit 11ppm CO in your home. Cigarette smokers exhale between 4 and 9 ppm CO all the time. And, if you're in a city, it's possible that the background CO rises to that level during the day. The mechanic's meter might hit 12-15 ppm standing in the middle of your back yard!
Besides, 11-12ppm CO may be ambient conditions and nothing to really worry about. It could also be "left over" output from cooking or some other activity. To make it even more complicated, the cheap CO meters and many residential CO detectors are cross-sensitive to other gasses, like methane, butane, alcohol, aerosols, etc. I've seen "Pam" cooking spray put a CO detector into alarm.
Besides, if you had been cooking, using the oven, heating water on the stove, or had a door or window open that could cause your flue(any duct or passage for air, gas, or the like) to down draft, you might see 5-20ppm in the house for a period of time. An oven will produce anywhere from 20 to 600 ppm when operating. Most run in the 30-100ppm range.

You should still check with the local firedepartment or call the company that made The detector your using.

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Could furnace have a failing secondary heat exchanger?

Stuck in t

Our 18 year old Carrier Weathermaker has a strong, sour smell coming from the PVC pipe to the outdoors. In the past week, the furnace fan also often continues after the heat has stopped, so cold air is being forced through our house until I turn off the gas and electric to the furnace and press the manual button on the side of the fire box (my term, as I know little about this stuff).

I am looking at having the furnace replaced because two service people said that this is a major problem and that carbon monoxide could leak into the house. Just to avoid the obvious, I should mention that the air filter is clean and that the limit switch was replaced recently in an effort to fix the fan problem. The fan problem and sour smell continues. I also see a small amount of condensation/water in the furnace.

I read on the internet that Carrier settled a suit alleging that secondary heat exchangers were designed of poor materials and could fail early. As a result, Carrier agrred to replace the secondary heat exchanger if it failed (both parts and labor).

Because I have no idea whether this is the problem...any experts out there who could tell me if it might be?

Thanks.

Answer
It sounds to me like the secondary heat exchanger may have failed, causing the furnace to shut off the heating element but not the fan. That would explain why you are getting cold air blowing through the house - because the thermostat thinks it should still be in heating mode, and so keeps the fan going, but the furnace thinks (probably correctly) that it's not safe to keep the flame on.

Carbon monoxide poisoning is a very real risk in the case of a cracked secondary heat exchanger, so if I were you I would not wait long to replace your furnace. I would also make sure you have a CO detector in every bedroom in your house, so if things do deteriorate to the point where your furnace is leaking CO into the house, you know it instantly and don't asphyxiate in your sleep.

And you are right, there was a class action settlement in both the US and Canada relating to these faulty heat exchangers, although I believe many of the heat exchangers that cracked early on (and caused the class action lawsuits to launch) were the result of installers selling oversized furnaces, which tend to cycle more frequently and therefore cause more wear on components.

In any case, the Carrier settlement is not likely to help you out very much because your furnace is so old and the settlement was prorated based on furnace age. You might get a couple of hundred dollars towards a new furnace. They may pay the full amount to replace the heat exchanger (it should cover both parts and service - don't let the HVAC company charge you a cent) but a furnace isn't really expected to last more than about 20 years, so maybe you just lost out and have to replace yours a couple of years early.

I know the cracked heat exchanger problem has made a lot of people unhappy about Carrier but in fact they are really one of the best furnace companies on the market, and I know several installers who won't install anything else. I installed a Bryant furnace in my own home 13 years ago and it has never caused me any problems (Bryant and Carrier are both made by the same company.) The Carrier Infinity ICS furnace is probably the best furnace on the market - and won't have the same heat exchanger problem you're experiencing.

The business I work for uses charcoal indoors?

Joe B

I work for a restaurant that uses charcoal indoors. They do not have adequate ventilation (the kitchen becomes extremely smokey at times) and the ventilation that they do have is extremely clogged and old. I have contacted OSHA twice and filed complaints, never got a call back and have not been able to contact them. I have also contacted the local fire commissioner, he never called me back either. Is there anything I can do about this? I would just like a professional safety worker to check this system out, because we all know that charcoal burning emits carbon monoxide. Anyone have any ideas? Anyone that I could call?

Answer
Checking for Carbon Monoxide is a relatively simple matter, there are CO detectors from Industrial Scientific (the M-40) for less than $400.00. Virtually any Safety Professional could do a test.

Assessing this situation is a little more complicated though. There is not just CO involved, there is the smoke itself which contains other byproducts and chemicals. What you really need is an Industrial Hygienist to have a look at the system. They specialize in chemical and environmental hazards and would be able to calculate the air changes per hour necessary to keep the air healthy.

I do find it odd that OSHA has not acted. I am from Canada, but I would assume they are like our Provinces OH&S Department and would be obligated to act on complaints. I would try again. If they still fail to act, OSHA must answer to an elected offical somewhere along the line. Public officials usually act when their voters take up issues with them.

If all else fails, you can try to convince your emplyer to go down to Wal-Mart and buy a CO detector. The ones you buy there are not as sensitive as the M-40 and will not give you instant read outs, but they will go off if the CO is above the safe levels for a period of time.

Good luck!

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Carbon monoxide detector went off?

basketball

Its 2:30 in the morning and my carbon monoxide detector went off about 20 min ago. It was realllllllly quiet and only barely woke me up, not like the loud obnoxious noise it makes when I've tested it in the past. It sounded like an alarm clock, not really a chirping sort of noise. It only went off for about minute and then stopped and hasn't gone off since. Should I be concerned? My parents just shrugged it off and went back to sleep but I'm not so sure they should have done that...CO2 is nothing to mess around with.

Answer
I've had mine go off before and worried about it, too. If it goes off but eventually turns off, you are fine. Trust me, if that thing detects ANY CO2, it will blare the holy living hell out of itself until the CO2 is gone. Also, if there were CO2 in the air, you would be throwing up, or passing out, or at the least, very very sick. If you've been in the house for twenty minutes since it went off and you are not dead, I'm sure there is nothing in the house. However, you might want to urge your parents to have it checked out tomorrow when you all wake up. If they don't, I'm 99% certain that you'll be fine. It might just be good to check and make sure.

Why does my Carbon Monoxide detector keep going off?

Stephen T

We have a brand new First Alert smoke/carbon monoxide detector. One day it was going off when I came home for lunch. I called the fire dept. and they came and did a test and said my levels were normal for the basement. A few weeks ago it started going off again so I opened a window. We felt no symptoms. This morning it went off yet again.

Is my device faulty? What could be the problems. Every time it has gone off I have replaced the batteries just in case the signal meant low battery.

Answer
I would try a different unit (or even different brand) and see if the results are the same. You might even try getting separate smoke/CO detectors and try different locations. And if it goes off again, I would have the fire department come and check more than the basement (and they should use two detectors to make sure THEIR readings are accurate). There's a whole myriad of factors involved here; I wouldn't rest until I was sure I wasn't in any danger. People die from CO poisoning every day. I've found a couple of websites that might help:

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carbon monoxide--FD is here what does this mean?

JMITW

22 parts per million carbon monoxide?
the FD is at by building--they say there are 22 parts per million CO in the basement--is that normal?

someones detector went off

know they are saying 30--but aren't evacuating--only 1 apartment affected so far
it doesn'gt necessarily have to be a heater-

i wanst to know teh significance of teh amount of CO
like is 30 still considered a low reading--or a very high reading
the issue wasn't resolvedin teh basement--if was left overnight until maintenace could address it the next day--
the area will the 1000 reading was left alone over night
i found out after wardsa about the basement with the 1000 reading

Answer
In my area the natural gas company treats it as an emergency and responds right away with any reading 9 ppm or higher.

I would not let my family stay in any area with any CO reading.

The Center for Disease Control site has info on CO.

how to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning from home heater?

Jessica

what should i check and how do i make the home heater is ok.

Answer
If the dwelling as adequate ventilation, and the heater is functioning as new (no yellow impingement flame) and you are not feeling any nausea, tiredness or drowsy then most likely you haven't a worry in the world.

One thing you may not realize, is if you smoke there is more CO in the dwelling and your bloodstream than any heater would throw out. There is also more likelihood the gas water heater would be more dangerous than it is.
3 ppm is common where an upper limit may be considered at 10 ppm where smokers puff away. 30 is dangerous.

Purchase a CO detector, mount it at or near floor level and relax.

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How does a smoke detector work?

Jaleasa B

pllz i need it for my homework

Answer
A smoke detector or smoke alarm is a device that detects smoke and issues an alarm to alert nearby people that there is a potential fire. Technically, they could also be described as an active fire protection device that is subject to stringent bounding. A household smoke detector will typically be mounted in a disk shaped plastic enclosure about 150mm in diameter and 25mm thick, but the shape can vary by manufacturer.

Because smoke rises, most detectors are mounted on the ceiling or on a wall near the ceiling. To avoid the nusance of false alarms, most smoke detectors are mounted away from kitchens. To increase the chances of waking sleeping occupants, most homes have at least one smoke detector near any bedrooms; ideally in a hallway as well as in the bedroom itself.

Smoke detectors are usually powered by one or more batteries but some can be connected directly to household wiring. Often the smoke detectors that are directly connected to household wiring also have a battery as a power supply backup in case the household wiring goes out. It is usually necessary to replace the batteries once a year to ensure appropriate protection.

Most smoke detectors work either by optical detection or by ionization, but some of them use both detection methods to increase sensitivity to smoke. Smoke detectors may operate alone, be interconnected to cause all detectors in an area to sound an alarm if one is triggered, or be integrated into a fire alarm or security system. Smoke detectors with flashing lights are available for the deaf or hearing impaired. A smoke detector cannot detect carbon monoxide to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning unless it has an integrated carbon monoxide detector.

my cardonmonoxide detector wont %#^%&%&^ shut up!!!!!!!?

Lulu

there is no effing carbon monoxide in my house and the stupid thing wont shut up even when we put a fan to it it detects gas.

how do i shut it up i swear im going to be deaf by the time im done with it.

i have unplugged it i have put it outside i have put it in the basement fanned it.....

please help!!

Answer
If it's unplugged the device will still work and a cautionary beep is emitted to let you know your battery is dying.

Take the 9 volt out of the back and replace it. If that doesn't work maybe the censor in the actual device is defective.

As a cautionary step I would take it outside and attach an extension cord to it. If it's detecting extreme levels of carbon monoxide outside, you'll know it's faulty and should just replace the entire unit.

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How to test air quality in workspace?

Dylan

I have a small office in a building full of artists, musicians etc... The office has a very strong smell to it. It almost smells like very strong crayons. I would like to test the air quality in the space. I feel as though there might by some noxious fumes coming from somewhere.
Any recommendations on how to test the air quality for pollutants? No need to test for allergens.

Answer
This is a stretch, but OSHA requires all work places to keep a list of chemicals and their hazards on site. This location sounds like a school and I doubt you will find the HAZMAT sheets on site, but you could contact Windsor Newton and any other artist paint manufacturers for the hazard sheet on their product. The toxic paint thinners of old have been replaced with newer stuff with less fumes. Walk around the studios and check the labels. You may find they need ventilation when used. Clay would also have an odor. I personally love that smell. Just about any diverse art center has it. Your other option would be to hire a safety engineer to check your work space. Radon testers and carbon monoxide detectors are the only air quality testers I have seen for the general public.

How many uT units of exposure does it take to cause cancer?

newengland

The microwave in my kitchen measured off the chart. The carbon monoxide detector, the alarms and the microwave together makes me shudder. What is the cell damage rate of whatever is measured in uT's? ( I am using the MEL-8704 Electromagnetic Field Radiation Tester. (it's for ghost hunting, lol)

Answer
I don't know but have you found any spiritual presence with it?

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Kidde Carbon Monoxide Plug-In beeped every 10 seconds until we re-plugged in it. Should we be worried?

Laur

My sister's boyfriend didn't bother to look at the alarm before he unplugged it, but when he plugged it back in it stopped beeping and the light is green next to "operator". It hasn't gone off again since.

I feel a little lightheaded right now, and I'm not sure if it's because I'm worried or if something is actually wrong.

I feel like if it was something it would've gone off again already?

I'm freaking out and I don't want my sister blowing money unless it could actually be something.

Answer
You have a 9 volt battery backup in the detector. The manual says that if the battery is low it will beep every 15 seconds. If you had a problem with carbon monoxide you would hear a pattern of 4 quick loud beeps followed by 5 seconds of silent. The cycle will continue as long as a dangerous CO condition exist . So, unplug it from the receptacle and change the 9 volt battery. Be sure to use a new battery, not one on sale. BTW: Mild exposure symptom would be headache,nausea and vomiting.Medium exposure bad headache, confusion and drowsiness.Extreme exposure unconsciousness.If you still are worried, then get out of the house and call 911.

Do you need to spend alot on smoke detectors?

clooneypet

Someone who works at or volunteers with a fire department may be able to help me with this matter. My husband and I attended a seminar run by a company selling smoke detectors. They told us a lot of useful information but then it came to the product they were selling. It seemed like a very good product, photoelectric smoke detectors, wireless system, they all work together. The unfortunate thing is that for 13 units (3 carbon monoxide units, 2 heat sensors and 8 smoke detectors and they would install) is was going to cost around $6,000.00. This just seemed like a lot of money for smoke detectors. My husband and I decided to wait on that do some research on dual units that you can buy at the big box stores. We researched at consumer reports and other places and found we can purchase dual units and carbon monoxide units and it will run us so much cheaper. Needless to say at the seminar they scare you half to death thinking that you will have a fire, the smoke detector will never go off or you will not hear it and you will die. I guess I am trying to ask if the dual units are perfectedly acceptable at working during an actual fire and I shouldn't play into the sales pitch that I will die without spending $6,000.00 on smoke detectors.

Answer
Tony is correct, but you don't have to have them hard wired, there are detectors on the market that are battery operated and radio linked. Yes they are a bit more expensive than the bog standard battery detectors, but only a fraction of the $6,000 you have been quoted.
In many houses you only have one staircase, so this needs protecting at top and bottom, I also have them near to each bedroom door (all on the roof and at least half a metre away from any wall).
You should however, create an escape plan, as when a smoke detector activates, you don't necessarily want to open doors allowing smoke through, so look for fist floor opening windows and things like a telephone upstairs. Don't put a smoke detector in or near a kitchen (fit a heat detector around 55C rated). Optical Smoke detectors tend not to give as many false alarms than the more sensitive ionisation detectors, but that choice is up to you and what you may have in your house.

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does a carbon monoxide detector detect propane?

Jo

Answer
CO detectors will detect CO produced by LP or any other source, but most detectors won't detect the unburned Natural Gas or Propane unless labelled that they do.

This one is labelled for CO and gas/propane: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H2651Y/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=undehomepowe-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000H2651Y

If you already have adequate CO detection you could buy just a gas detector and save a few bucks: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NZ278E/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=undehomepowe-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B001NZ278E

Carbon Monoxide Detectors?

Jensyn

Does a monoxide detector keep ringing if it senses the carbon monoxide? Ours just went off once, but then stopped and taken out. It hasn't rung since. If there was anything would it have gone off again? Thanks I'm scared.

Answer
Carbon Monoxide Detectors are important. They detect this gas which has no smell to it. You need to test the unit to make sure it is working properly.

The detector would stop ringing once carbon monoxide drops to a safe level.

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Where is the best place to put my carbon monoxide detector?

Flynn2

I live in a 1100 square foot condo. Living area, 2 small bedrooms downstairs. Upstairs is a master bedroom and master bath only. From the master bedroom upstairs, there is a small door that goes to the attic space. The hot water heater and inside HVAC unit are right next to each other. Nothing else in the house runs on gas at all. There is also an outlet next to the door on the inside.

Should I put the detector right next to the two appliances? Should I put it right outside of the small door or put one downstairs? I'm afraid if I put it in the attic and the CO came through the vents, the detector would be too late.

I would like to have this answered by a HVAC expert or emergency personnel. Thanks.

Answer
Install your carbon monoxide detector according to the specific manufacturers installation instructions that came with it. If you do not have the instructions or cannot find them for your unit, throw it out. Buy a new carbon monoxide detector with complete installation instructions and warranty information. The new co detector will come with the manufacturers placement recommendations for that specific product.

The Ultimate Solution; You can have a commercial alarm company come out and install a full set of fire, smoke, and carbon monoxide units that will be monitored 24/7.

Also, have a licensed Plumbing, HVAC, or Mechanical company inspect your gas appliances at least once a year.

Where is the best place for a Carbon Monoxide detector?

D_Icon

I say near the floor where ever there are gas burning appliances since the gas is heavier than air. My uncle says up high...

Answer
Carbon monoxide is not heavier than air. It's specific gravity is 0.9657, with air being one. It will mix freely with the air in the home. In fact, if carbon monoxide is being produced from combustion appliances (like gas furnaces), it will rise with the heated air. Most detectors come with instructions as to where they should be placed. First Alert recommends their battery operated detectors be placed on the ceiling. Plug-in models, of course, will be placed lower because that's generally where receptacles are located. If only one detector is being installed, it should be placed close to bedroom areas. The more detectors the better.

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my carbon monoxide detector is reading 40 and it beeps like once a minute. should I be concerned? its a Kidde?

tx4jones

Answer
Check your Battery or replace your battery if it still says the same thing then this may sound crazy but call your local fire dept. NOT !!!!! 911 local fire dept. -n- ask them about the %

can you please answer!! abt carbon monoxide!!?

Sarah

basically i woke abt an hr ago to the sound of the carbon monoxide alarm beeping! it isnt very loud and it beeps every 40 seconds. is there carbon monoxide in the house or is it just the battery????? i dont think it would b the battery cuz we just got the alarm less than 3 months ago!! please answer!! would it make a louder noise if there was carbon monoxide here?? thanks and have a great day!!!!!!!!!!

Answer
CO detectors also detect smoke. When a battery gets low the detector usually chirps once every few minutes or so. Every 40 seconds doesn't sound right, the unit may be defective, or they designed it to be more insistent when you have a low battery.

If the alarm was detecting something that needed to be announced the alarm would be beeping rapidly - continuously until the battery went dead. Since yours isn't doing that I'd have to guess it's probably safe to still be in the house.

My wife just bought a new clock. Came with a new battery. But it wasn't working. She was going to take it back but I thought why not just switch the battery. Turned out the contacts were dirty and only needed to be cleaned. Sometimes you get a defective device. I've had plenty of NEW batteries that were almost dead when I took them out of the package. Could just be you need a new battery. No telling how long that thing sat on the shelf - or even if someone bought it and decided they didn't want it any longer. Or maybe they had an old one and bought a new one then put the old one back in the box and brought it back for a refund. These ARE hard economic times and there's no telling what someone may do.

My advice is if the device is acting suspiciously (as I suspect based on the 40 second chirp) I'd think it might be time to either read the instructions or take it back for a new one.

Hope this helps.

'av'a g'day mate.

")

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What does it mean when my carbon monoxide alarm says the "Peak Level" is 26? Is this cause for concern?

newjediord

It never actually sounded, but the Peak Level went from 0, to 15, to 21, to 26. (There's a button you can push called Peak Level) So, does anyone know what this means? Do I have a slow-leaking source of carbon monoxide, or is my alarm just detecting other similar chemicals? As a side note, the alarm is in the kitchen, not in the ceiling, but on a counter.

Answer
The highest level it has detected is 26 parts per million, most will not alarm till 50 ppm. Get it out of the kitchen, simply cooking could cause the reading. I recommend you put detectors where you sleep.
Carbon monoxide is known as the silent killer because most become victims while they are
are sleeping. Candles, burnt food, gas stoves, auto exhaust, gas water heaters and gas furnaces are examples of things to look for. Exposure to over 5ppm is not recommended for any length of time. It is also possible your detector is faulty, I would not bet on that. Take the time to sort this one out.

Why does my Nighthawk carbon monoxide detector keep chirping every so often and reading 248 after I reset it?

Dragonlady

The last few days, the detector has chirped...does it for about an hour or less, every 30 seconds or so. Sometimes it stops for hours..even up to a day before it does it again. I've changed the battery twice. It came up low battery once...but was reading 0 the whole time the other times it happened. Then when I hit reset, it went to 888, then to 248 and once said 247. I don't understand this...makes me worry, yet it goes back to 0.

Answer
It suggests that there most likely is a malfunction if as you say that you've put new batteries in. It could also be an end of life warning (not yours, the carbon monoxide detectors'). If you've had the alarm for between 4-7 years this could be the case. People have had some problems with this particular model of carbon monoxide detector. It's probably best to contact the manufacturer directly, in this case Kidde, and if you have a valid warranty get them to send a new one asap. If not and your detector is in the end of life period it's probably better to buy a new one asap anyway. In the meantime it's better not to take any risks; make sure your house is well ventilated at all times.

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What type of generator should I buy for an RV?

Beth K

I will be needing a generator to run the electrical power/AC for a small RV. What are some brands and models to look for that are reliable and affordable, what to stay away from?

Answer
A generator is great to have. Without it, you are going to be pretty limited on what you can use in your RV... like a fridge, TV, A/C, etc.

The most important things that I think of in buying a generator for an RV is:

How quiet is the generator?
Does it start easily?
How much current does it put out?
How large is the fulltank / how often are you goint to need to refuel it?

I'd suggest you head out to a RV and/or lawnmower type store and talk to a salesperson about what you need. Bring the RV if possible, and you can see about getting the fit right and connectors you might need.

Safety first! Always keep in mind when you use a generator there is carbon monoxide. You should always inspect the exhaust system on the generator set before using it. Do not operate a generator with a damaged exhaust system. If you're using a portable generator set make sure the exhaust is directed away from the camping area. Test your carbon monoxide detector for proper operation prior to using the generator. Never run a generator when you or anyone else is sleeping. Observe campground etiquette. Do not run your generator after quiet hours.

Thanks, Brad

I need help getting a recently purchased RV (USED) readyfor the season to camp & travel?

chris b

FLUSH SEWER ,WATERLINES,AND LIGHT WATER HEATER

Answer
I know this is a long answer, but your question warrants it, so here you go...

*Depending on how your unit was winterized it will need to be de-winterized. If you used non-toxic RV antifreeze you need to run fresh water through the entire system until the antifreeze is gone. To remove it from the 12-volt water pump add water to the fresh water-holding tank, turn the pump on and open all of the water faucets. When the antifreeze is out of the system turn the pump off and take the water heater out of the by-pass mode (if applicable). Replace any water filter cartridges you removed for storage.

*At this point I like to sanitize the water system. Make sure all of the drains are closed and drain plugs are installed. Take a quarter cup of household bleach for every fifteen gallons of water your fresh water tank holds. Mix the bleach with water into a one-gallon container and pour it in to the fresh water holding tank. Fill the fresh water holding tank completely full of water. Turn the pump on and run water through each hot and cold faucet, until you smell the bleach. Close the faucets and let it sit for twelve minutes. Drain all of the water and re-fill the tank with fresh water. Turn the pump on and open all faucets until you no longer smell any bleach. It may be necessary to repeat this process to eliminate all signs of bleach.

*With water in the fresh water holding tank turn the 12-volt water pump on and pressurize the water system until the pump shuts off. If the water pump cycles back on, even for a short period of time, there is a leak somewhere. Locate the leak and repair it or take it to an authorized RV service center to be repaired.

*Check the operation of the toilet. Add several gallons of water to the black water holding tank and treat the tank with holding tank chemicals.

*Wash the unit thoroughly. This is a good time to inspect the roof, body seams, and window sealant for cracking that would allow water to get in. Inspect sealants everywhere the manufacturer cut a hole in the RV. Consult a dealer for sealants compatible with these materials.

*Inspect the operation of the awning, clean and check the awning fabric for any damage. Inspect the tires for signs of dry rot. Inflate all tires to the recommended cold tire pressure. Lubricate all hinges and locks with spray lubricant.

*Remove any tape or protective covering you may have put over LP gas vents to keep insects and rodents out. Check any mousetraps you may have put out. Open all doors and compartments and check for rodent intrusion and water damage.

*Inspect and clean the interior of the RV.

*Plug in any appliances that you unplugged for storage and replace any dry cell batteries you may have removed. This is a good time to put new batteries in items like smoke alarms.

*Test the operation of the carbon monoxide detector, LP gas leak detector and smoke alarm.

*Check the fire extinguisher. Be sure it is fully charged.

*Reset any breakers you may have turned off. If you removed any fuses for storage re-install them.

*Clean or replace air conditioner filters if it wasnât done prior to storage and remove any covers that were put over air conditioners.

*Open vents and windows and air the unit out.

*If you removed the coach and chassis batteries for storage install them. Whether they were removed or not check the electrolyte levels, clean the terminals and clamps, and check the state of charge in all batteries. Recharge batteries as necessary.

*Check the operation of the electric steps if applicable. Lubricate step mechanism.

*Test the operation of the hydraulic jacks if applicable. Check hydraulic fluid level.

*Test the operation of the back up camera and monitor if applicable.

*If you didnât change the oil and filters in the generator prior to storage this is a good time to do it.

*Inspect the generator exhaust system for any damage prior to starting it. Start and run the generator for one hour with at least a half rated load on it. Consult the generators owner manual for proper load ratings.

*Turn the generator off and plug the unit in to shore power. Turn the refrigerator on in the electric mode. Allow sufficient time for it to cool and check for proper operation.

*Check all 12-volt interior lights and accessories.

*Test the monitor panel for proper operation.

*Check the operation of slide outs if applicable.

*Check the remaining 120-volt appliances for proper operation.

*Test the Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) for proper operation.

*Turn the refrigerator off, leave the doors open and allow sufficient time for it to get to room temperature so it can be checked in the gas mode.

*Before I use the LP gas system I have a leak test and gas operating pressure test preformed. A qualified technician with the proper equipment should do these tests.

*Turn the LP gas valve on and check the operation of all LP gas appliances. Be sure the water heater is full of water before testing the water heater. If a gas appliance is not operating properly have it inspected by a qualified technician. Insects are attracted to the odorant added to LP gas and build nests that can affect the appliance from operating properly.

*If your unit was in long-term storage and you didnât change the engine oil and filter prior to storage this would be a good time to do it.

*Check all fluid levels in the transmission, power steering, engine coolant, engine oil, windshield washer and brakes. Consult vehicle ownerâs manual.

*Start the engine and check for proper readings on all gauges. Check for proper operation of the dash air conditioner.

*Chassis lubrication should be preformed if it wasnât done prior to storage.

*Check the condition of windshield wiper blades and replace if necessary.

*Check the operation of all chassis lights.

*Make sure the vehicle emissions / inspection sticker is up to date.

In addition to this if you have a pop up or travel trailer the wheel bearings and brakes (if equipped) should be inspected at least once annually. Inspect any canvas for dry rot and tears; inspect all hitch work and the coupler for any damage. Inspect the breakaway switch and pigtail for proper operation. It really doesnât take a lot of time to get your RV ready for another camping season, and you can rest assured that when itâs time to go camping your RV is ready too. Now for the fun part, load your clothes, food, and personal belongings, hit the road and have fun exploring this wonderful country we live in.

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How many uT units of exposure does it take to cause cancer?

newengland

The microwave in my kitchen measured off the chart. The carbon monoxide detector, the alarms and the microwave together makes me shudder. What is the cell damage rate of whatever is measured in uT's? ( I am using the MEL-8704 Electromagnetic Field Radiation Tester. (it's for ghost hunting, lol)

Answer
I don't know but have you found any spiritual presence with it?

To test the heat exchanger, use a(n)?

Joshua K

(Q)To test the Heat Exchanger, use a(n);
(a) radon tester
(b) carbon monoxide tester or smoke bomb
(c) halide detector
(d) any of the above

Would you choose a right answer for me?
thankyou

Answer
"Would you choose a right answer for me?"

No Joshua, learn your material and answer it yourself.

A service tech not willing to properly learn the basics of the trade will be dangerous to their customers and a liability to their employer.
.

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