carbon dioxide alarm question?

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luvs 2 sho

can carbon dioxide alarms detect gas leaks? also another question if there is a leak how long does it take before it blows up like if a leak just happen could it blow up right there and then? what are the signs of a gas leak?

Answer
No. Natural gas or LP gas is not CO2. If you happen to mean " Carbon Monoxide" alarm, CO, same case. (CO is the typical alarm type in residential applications) CO is odorless and very toxic to us.

Natural gas & LP has an odor added to it ( for detection by our noses). It has to be in the range 2.15% to 9.60% LP mixed to air to be explosive. Anything less or anything more, and it is not . (One of the properties that makes it desirable as an engergy source for our use)

It is also 1.52 the weight of air, so gravity keeps it low.

It would need an ignition source of 154 F. Most likely explosion range mixtures would be very shortly after a leak started and would exceed the max % range fairly shortly after that - so a small "window" for potential explosion.

Main signs of leakage is the "Smell" of the commercial additive. Verifying the leak with soap/water mixture on the pipe lines to locate the leak with "bubbles" showing.
There are also "LP Gas Detector" alarms available.

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I have an ADT alarm system with a hard wired CO2 Monitor. The system is about 6 years old.?

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Phillip

The CO2 Monitor has started beeping about every 5 mins, almost like a battery needs to be changed, but the only battery is the big battery backup for the alarm system. Does anyone know if this thing might have a sensor that needs to be changed?

Answer
Hi Phillip,

I've installed many CO (carbon monoxide) detectors, and all have specified a lifespan of about 5 years. After the useful service life listed by the manufacturer, they should be replaced.

Yours may be different. Try googling the model number to find mfr's literature on it. Or, contact the installing company for advice.

I hope this is helpful, and good luck.

None of my fire alarms went off?

Harry

Yesterday my home got full of smoke due to a malfunctioning wood pellet stove, which I was tending to, what called my attention w so much smoke why none of my 10 smoke detectors went off.
The batteries are only about 6 months old, and they're the kind that are hooked up in series thru the 110V circuit and the battery is only for back up in case of a power failure. I tested each one by pressing the test button and ALL tested fine, but when I blow smoke on them, they just do nothing, they're less than 6 years old, I understand 1 or 2 may go bad....but all 10? a few of them are dual smoke/co2 combo, those dont work either, theres power on the line. Anyones opinion is valuable, but that know a lot about smoke detectrs please, chime in....Thanks!!
Ok, I meant parallel, the system was installed by professional electricians when the home was built in 2005, the manufact. date of the units is march 2005. I tried blowing air, vacuuming, no change they:re KIDDE 21006378 and the co combos are KIDDE KN-COSM-IB .
I left out that in the beginning they worked fine, Im going to try some more suggestions and get back. for the time being, temporahily, I got 2 new units from First Alert they're the battery only type,and they pass the smoke test nooo problem Thank you to all of you that answered.

Answer
Hi Harry,

Smoke detectors should be cleaned using compressed air, as others have said. Testing with actual smoke is also more accurate than just using the "test" button.

Be aware that smoke detectors do have a set lifespan. Most manufacturers recommend replacing any smoke detector after 5-10 years. The same is true for carbon monoxide detectors. Most of these that I've installed specify replacement after 5 years.

Check with the manufacturer, and see when they recommend replacing their units.

Sounds like you're really doing your homework. Good job!

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What is this loud beep in the house?Fire Alarm?

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OWL

Every about five minutes a loud quick beep hurt my ears,I think I once heard that it might be the fire alarms low on battery can it be this? I heard it in many other houses too.like my Grampa's House and friend's houses.What can this be?It's driving me NUTS!

Answer
READ EVERY WORD FIRST, ALL OF THEM, PLEASE!!!!
Well that's an easy one, I am assuming you are young since you reference Grandpa. Note the beep has to be from something electronic Possible sources: Burglar Alarm company backup battery to the main system is weak, the remotely located wireless window/door sensors have batteries that when dead make the Alarm console beep.

A smoke detector is likely. I have some that mount directly to the wall and some to a bracket that is mounted and you turn the "front" of the detector CCW or CW to remove from the bracket. You need to know if the smoke/fire alarm is a battery unit (CLUE: IF YOU CAN TAKE IT OFF WHERE ITS MOUNTED AND IF IT HAS NO WIRE INTO THE WALL/CEILING ITS BATTERY, NOW TURN IT OVER TO THE "WALL SIDE", MAYBE THERE IS A VISIBLE 9V BATTERY COMPARMENT SPOT RIGHT IN FRONT OF YOU), if not it might be a open the cover unit, so, open the cover by looking, AND THEN LOOKING AGAIN, you might have to pry a "tab" or unscrew a screw before opening, when you see the 9v battery you will be half done, (if YOU DON'T ABSOLUTELY KNOW WHAT A 9V BATTERY LOOKS LIKE STOP SEE TEST BUTTON BELOW). PLEASE don't mess with the "120" volt smoke detector, call the company if it's the "beeper" [all non battery smoke detectors may not be "120" volt but they may be 12-24 volt AC or DC so they still might be dangerous] (I say that more for those who might nitpick me).

If it really beeps every five minutes it wont hurt to pull the 9volt battery and wait 7 minutes. TEST SECTION: If you can't wait, be brave, re-read above and extract the battery, put the 9v battery to your tongue, if it mildly tingles it's a dead battery, if it smarts put it back in and wait the "5" minutes. NOTE YOU CAN'T DIE FROM THIS EXCEPT MAYBE IF YOU HAVE A PACEMAKER OR BUILT-IN HEART DEFIBRILLATOR SO THOSE FOLKS DON'T "TONGUE" IT.

Or best of all, get a volt meter from an electronics pal. 9 volts minus 1.8=7.2 volts = battery no good (if the battery is low by 20% its dead, this even applies with 6 volt, 1.5volt etc.( -20% is my guide for alkaline batteries),

Also if you are afraid just press the TEST BUTTON, on the smoke detector, if it has one, buy a new one if it doesn't have a test button, its too old or the owner was too frugal. [IF IT WONT SOUND OFF UNDER TEST ITS DEAD, IF IT DOES SOUND THEN YOU CAN NOW KNOW IF ITS "YOUR BEEP"] Now identify if its a 9v battery by taking it gently off its mount or bracket mount also see above again. See the test section if you feel braver.

If you succeed in removal AND REPLACE THE 9V note that I put all my detectors on a wall AS CLOSE to the ceiling on a 3-4 inch bread twist tie or better "wire" to a screw or thumb tack [ yes it looks fine if you do it right] for easy removal of batteries and no loss of sensitivity. Generally smoke rises driven by the heat, so the closer to the ceiling the better.
(this wire mount idea is at your discretion, I'm sure some fire guy is gonna disagree but in my experience of an actual house fire in 1987 with the detectors mounted as such, they saved my sleeping wife and cat!)

Check for a carbon monoxide detector and again make sure its not "120" volt, press the test button. A UPS on your computer with a near dead battery makes beeps. A medical device for "Gramps" may be at fault. a cell phone or cordless home phone beeps when near dead. A microwave or new fridge with the door open can beep. An AC alarm clock can beep when its 9volt battery gets weak.. Get the common thread?

If after all that you can't isolate it, invite some other young folks over for sodas, [statistically better at hearing high pitched beeps] put the battery back in the smoke detector and have the young'uns stand at different parts around the seeming sound area to pinpoint the beep. Keep in mind that some beeps are so foxy that they are like a ventriloquist and "throw their voices" so move around like musical chairs till every one agrees. Need I say more?? Good Luck! WHEW

Best smoke detector for my needs?

JoeCool

Ideally would like to find a smoke detector that has these capabilities:

120V w 9v backup - not just 9v
Dual ionization and photoelectric sensors
Ability to interconnect to other units
NOT First Alert

I don't see units like this at Lowe's or Home Depot - online or in the store. To me it seems ideal, that in a basement I may want just one type, bedrooms and other areas, both types.

Either why aren't these produced, or where are some shopping links to them?

Answer
Here you are exactly what you want and NOT a first alert check it out great product and price:Kidde KN-COSM-IB

http://smokealarmpro.com/product-review-kidde-120v-hardwired-talking-combination-carbon-monoxide-smoke-alarm-w-battery-back-up-modelkn-cosm-ib/

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What can make a CO detector false alarm?

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Keith

I am seeing carbon monoxide detectors on my boat false alarm at times. These are both the regular variety and the very sensitive aviation types. There are no boats or engines running nearby, no flames, aerosols in use, no combustion engines of any kind. What other gasses might cause these to false alarm?

Answer
It's possible that the humidity is affecting the performance of the sensors as well. Try running a hair dryer on an open detector to dry out the components.

If you're on the ocean, the salt could be causing issues as well. You'll probably need to switch them out if it's a salt issue, as cleaning them probably isn't an option.

How do I test for the following pollutants in a lab (Environmental Chemistry)?

beltlessbo

Sulfer Dioxide (SO2)
Carbon Monoxide (CO)
Nitrogen Dioxide (NO2)
Ozone (O3)
Lead and Heavy Metals (Pb, Hg, etc.)
Any other that may pertain to this subject.

Thank you.

Answer
Solids like lead and other heavy metals could obtained by filtering the air particles out of the air. They all form insoluble precipitates with carbonic acid (H2CO3).

Ozone can be determined by its sharp smell if in enough concentrations. In Central Florida it is a common smell in the air after a thunder and lightening storm.

NO2 is a brown gas that is easily seen in concentrations in the distant near the horizon.

SO2 can be determined by bubbling the air though water and testing for increased acidity. It also has a sulfur like smell in concentrations.

CO is the most difficult gas. It is colorless and odorless. It will any animal life that is forced to breath it. There are CO detectors that can be bought. I had one in the cabin of my boat which had an inboard gasoline engine.

All of these gases can be detected by a gas chromatograph in a lab.

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Where can I buy carbon monoxide detectors that sound at 10ppm?

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luvtropics

The ones in stores usually sound alarm at 70ppm.
i understand it's wise to have more sensitive lower level detection (10ppm) with little ones in the home because it takes less to affect them.

Answer
Check this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/search?ie=UTF8&keywords=carbon%20monoxide%20detector&tag=189-20&index=blended&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325

Did the halogen lights set off my fire alarm?

Just Curio

I was using two of these (http://www.amazon.com/Fancierstudio-Halogen-Lighting-Barndoor-Focusable/dp/B005UG88DK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1367700368&sr=8-2&keywords=fresnel) to shoot a few scenes in my basement and they were in the same room as what I thought was just a smoke detector (although now I think it maybe detects some other stuff too). The fire alarm went off and my family constantly complains about the strange smell they put off, kind of burnt-smelling, but not exactly. Anyway, would the heat from the lights set a fire alarm off? Do smoke detectors detect heat too? But they weren't near the detector, just in the same room. Also do halogen lights release carbon monoxide? These may be carbon monoxide detectors too...

Answer
Your answer is No, No, No. Your smoke detector is most likely an ion detector. Those hot lights are turning dust , mold etc. into ions and is setting off the alarm. Only way to get carbon monoxide is incomplete combustion of carbon based fuel. Lights are not issue. Suggestion, if this is a problem go to the big box store and get a smoke alarm that is a "photoelectric" type and it will do the job and not get set off by hot lights. They are actually better as they will detect slow smoky fires way before the ion type.

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how can u monitor radon in a home?

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nicki

Answer
Buy a radon detector. They make them similar to smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.

Target and Home Depot carries them I believe.

www.target.com
www.homedepot.com

Is this necessary or is my dad just an extremist?

Austin

So it's like 60 degrees outside right now. Our furnace doesn't work and my dad would rather spend money on kerosene than getting that fixed. The house had a slight chill, my dad cranks up the kerosene heater. No problem, I understand. Now according to the thermostat, it's now 82 degrees in the house, no lie. We live in a single wide trailer and my dad refuses to ventilate by cracking a window so the heat (plus carbon monoxide) builds up fast. If I say something about it being too damn hot, he goes ballistic. What's your opinion on this? And by the way, can you really get carbon monoxide poisoning like this?

Answer
Well if you are concerned about carbon monoxide, go outside and or try to reason with your father and try to reach a compromise. You can listen to him go ballistic and eventually calm down and or die when you fall asleep from the potential carbon-monoxide, you're choice. If you are old enough to drive, go to the store, Target...and buy a carbon-monoxide detector for your trailer.

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How come my oven keeps setting off my carbon monoxide detector after I cleaned it?

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Peace

I recently cleaned my oven with a natural cleaning solution of baking soda, vinegar, and lemon juice. Ever since then, my carbon monoxide detector keeps going off almost each and every time I use the oven. The beeping stops almost as soon as I turn off the oven. Maybe I didn't rinse the oven well enough?

Answer
CO is a byproduct of an incomplete combustion process and quite dangerous to people. It is orderless and colorless and will suffocate a person. I assume that you have a natural gas oven.
Some possible causes are excess combustion air in the ambient during the combustion process or an insufficient fuel supply.
I would contact an appliance repair company. You may even contact the Gas Company and they will fix it, maybe at no charge.

Do you need a carbon monoxide detector if you don't have any gas running to your home?

Kay G

our house is 100% electric, so my thought is that you do not need a carbon monoxide detector because this poisionous gas comes from malfunctioning gas equipment. we live in Arizona and all the houses around us have no gas lines either, so do we need a co detector?

Answer
I would not purchase one if heat was electric.

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Need a basement vapor barrier? help!?

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mada

I am finishing my basement. Home is in upstate NY. The basement is completely underground on 3 sides, with concrete walls and floor for foundation. It is damp, to a point where dehumidifier fills up daily. There are no standing puddles or anything, just smells damp. The concrete walls and floors appear dry, but is this how dampness is entering? I want to make sure it is healthy for my 8 month old daughter to live down there, so what precautions do I need to dry it out? I got mold and mildew resistant drywall for all ceilings and walls. Do I need to paint a vapor barrier paint on all floors and walls before installing the drywall and flooring? Also, do I need a poly barrier of some sort? I also bought insulation with a vapor barrier around it. Please let me know what I need to do to make it safe for a small child to live in this space, and if I am in the right direction. I am also getting VOC-free Kilz primer because I want this space to be healthy, but I want to make sure I get the other stuff right first.

Answer
First, you _CANNOT_ make a cellar (100% below grade makes it a cellar, not a basement) into a safely habitable space without some means of proper positive ventilation. Are there actual operating windows in the third side? If not, you will have to install positive mechanical ventilation that is also in constant operation. Although this is a matter of code, it is also a matter of basic safety and health. Gases that might accumulate that are also heavier than air are:

Radon
Sewer Gases (methane, hydrogen sulfide and ammonia)
Propane
Carbon-dioxide
Carbon Monoxide (lighter than air but if the basement door is closed it can accumulate).

Sources for these gases might be small leaks in the soil line, a boiler or furnace, water heater, dryer or other gas or oil-burning appliance, and in the case of Radon, naturally occurring. If your daughter is to share space with any of these appliances you *MUST* install a Carbon Monoxide detector, get the place tested for Radon, and if you have natural gas or propane in the house a detector for that as well.

With all that in mind, the moisture is infiltrating through the concrete. Even old concrete is quite porous to water, and most residential construction did not use vapor-barriers when installing floors and walls, even as single-pour systems. There are vapor barrier paints and floor coatings that work to some degree, but the vapor-pressure through the concrete is considerable - such that you will never stop it entirely using a coating alone.

If everything is safe otherwise, and you have addressed the ventilation and Radon issues, this will be a good start:

a) Coat the floor with a vapor-inhibiting paint. Install a PERGO-type (interlocking laminate) floor over the self-sealing vapor-barrier underlayment (the link is for function, not brand).
b) When you frame the walls, use treated lumber for the bottom plate against rot.
c) Install the vapor-barrier insulation, then install another layer of Visqueen plastic (6 mil).
d) Then the drywall. Caulk the edges of the drywall.
e) STILL run a small dehumidifier on a humidistat with a condensate pump so you do not have to dump the pan every day.

You need to keep the relative humidity below 50%, or mold may start.

Good luck with it. DO check the life-safety issues first!

Smoke Detectors Question?

kasmira25

I just moved into a whole house and have noticed that there is one non working old as dirt smoke detector in the kitchen and non anywhere else in the house.

How many smoke detectors do i need?
I live in upstate NY
The house has a full unfinished basement, first floor,second floor with 4 bedrooms and bathroom, unfinished attic.
Gas heat and stove- so do i need a carbon monoxide detector?
I have two small children
The house is not new, its an older victorian

Any info would be helpful as to the amount and placement!! Thank you!

Answer
Not sure what the laws are regarding them, but I will give you best practices.

There should be at least one smoke detector and one carbon monoxide detector on each level of the home.

Each bedroom should have it's own smoke detector, preferably near the door to catch any smoke entering from the hallway.

Don't put a smoke detector in the kitchen due to nuisance alarms, but it's a good idea to have one nearby.

So I would recommend 8 smoke alarms and 3 CO detectors. If you want you can substitute 3 CO/smoke combo detectors.

Put one in each bedroom, one in the main hall on the second floor, two on the main floor, and one or two in the basement depending how big it is.

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What is a high number on a carbon monoxide detector?

carbon monoxide detector 214 image

LINK

I have a Nighthawk carbon monoxide detector and what is a number to know so that i know it's dangerous and should get out? I know it goes off when theres carbon monoxide in the air but i wanna know the number just incase. And I just tested it to and it said 214 is that bad?

Answer
The nice thing about Nighthawk is that they have a digital readout of the CO level so that you can monitor it even if the CO level isn't high enough to trigger the alarm. Under normal circumstances, the display should always read 0. Now, there are things that could cause the reading to temporarily rise, like cooking with a gas stove or oven. But, after you are done cooking, the level should drop. If your detector is reading anything but 0 all the time, you need to find the source and have the problem corrected. I would normally red flag anything over 9 or 10 ppm. Although that is no where near lethal levels, it still indicates a problem. Long term exposure to low levels of CO is not good for you.

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are there any circumstances when a portable gas generator is safe to operate in a screened-in porch?

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I'm thinking most of the Carbon monoxide comes out the exhaust pipe. Why not add a longer pipe(12 ft) to extend the exhaust pipe so the exhaust can be directed outdoors away from the indoors. Also, high velocity fans can be used to blow the air away from the indoors. Two carbon monoxide detectors would be helpful. limiting the time of day and the number of hours of use might help. definitely don't want to sleep while the generator is running.

Answer
Hi,
You will be better off building an enclosure outside of your porch. It will also be much quieter.
S1lent

Is a propane heater safe for indoor use?

John Jones

I need to heat a small shop during the winter. The propane heater would only be running when I'm in the shop, and no other time. I need to know if it is really safe to run a propane heater in this kind of environment. Would carbon monoxide build up be a problem? I'm sure I could install a battery operated carbon monoxide detector if I needed to.

Answer
You need to consult the CERTIFIED operating instructions of any heater you attempt to use for this area to ensure it is suitable for that application. If it is not certified for indoor use and it causes a fire or hurts anyone ( CO poisoning included ), the manufacturer will take no responsibility and insurance companies will deny any claims because the heater was used "In a manner other than what it was intended".

You should be installing something like an Empire DV35 "direct-vent" wall furnace in there. Direct vent means it takes air from outside, burns it with the fuel, and then puts the products of combustion back outside. There is no communication of the flame with the air you are breathing in the room. It's certainly not the cheapest option, but it is the safest!

EDIT: Basically any fuel burning appliance requires air. Combustion air and ventilation air. you need enough air for combustion and you need ventilation air to get the products of combustion out of the area so you do not reburn them. The general rule of thumb in the industry is 1 in² per 1000 btu's. If you have a 50,000 btu heater you need an opening of 50 in² to provide proper airflow. That does not mean opening a window or door. These could easily be closed, cutting off the air supply. Again, you need to carefully read the operating instructions.

If you put a monoxide detector in the shop with a portable heater, it will be alarming constantly. Detectors are very sensitive and portable heaters are not precision burners.

RENPEN: If you look at the CERTIFIED operating instructions for a kitchen range you will see that those appliances are APPROVED for indoor use. This is because ranges have a more precise gas valve. It controls the fuel pressure to a closer tolerance and gives a consistently even flame. Not like portable heaters or grills that have $5 regulators that could be +/- the proper pressure. The other reason is that a range is only used for relatively short periods of time and is a low btu appliance.

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How do sensors work? I need slightly technical information?

carbon monoxide detectors wiki image

nandiana20

I'm doing this paper on wireless monitoring and I really need to know how sensors basically work and more specifically how temperature ,pressure ,light,radiation, force and toxic gas sensors work. I'm not an electronics student. So an extremely simple explanation would be helpful.

Answer
It is a HUGE field, so you will have to do some web searching. Manufacturers pages are usually good places to find explanatory info.

Temperature:
Thermocouple - makes use of the fact that a junction of 2 different metals produces a voltage difference which varies with temperature.
Thermistor - a resistor whose value changes with temperature. There are 2 types, PTC and NTC, positive / negative temperature coefficient.

Pressure:
Typically you have a silicon membrane with a force sensor (strain gauge) on it. Pressure on one side of the membrane causes it to distort, which causes a change in resistance in the sensor.

Light:
Photodiode - a diode that leaks current according to how much light falls on it.
Light-dependant resistor (LDR) - does what it says!

Radiation:
Ionisation type detectors - basically a gas-filled tube. When a radiation particle strikes a gas atom it creates an ion, or charged atom. An electric field attracts the ion to a plate, where it is detected as a pulse of current.
Scintillation detector - use a crystal that produces a flash of light when struck by a particle. The flas is detected by a light sensor.

Force:
Strain gauge - a thin film of resistive material. Resistance changes when it is flexed.
Force sensing resistor (FSR) - resistance changes when squeezed
Piezoelectric bimorph - produces a voltage when flexed

Toxic gas:
Carbon monoxide detectors...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_monoxide_detector

What type of sensors are in a carbon dioxide detector?

I think it has metal oxide semiconductors but I'm not entirely sure...help?

Answer
I expect you mean carbon monoxide. The types are: Opto-Chemical, Biomimetic, Electrochemical and Semiconductor. You are not likely to find one which is opto-chemical. detailed information at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_monoxide_detector

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Carbon Monoxide Detector question?

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rhiannonb5

My boyfriend just called me from his hunting cabin; their carbon monoxide detector just went off and he wanted me to search the internet for him to see what they should do. I guess they run everything off propane and have the detector 'just in case.' They took the battery out and put it back in and it's not going off anymore. He said he 'thinks' they just changed the battery. I looked up some symptoms for him and he said no one has been feeling sick. Has anyone had this problem? Should I tell him to evacuate?

Answer
It's possible that a low/bad battery connection caused the detector to go off. It's also possible that there's a leak somewhere causing fumes to get into the cabin. To be on the safe side, they should open as many windows as they can to get good ventilation. If there's a fire dept nearby, they should call 911 and get the fire dept there. That's what I did. They do consider this an emergency.

Smoke detector going off with no sign of fire?

kdaddy_95

I'm hoping someone can help me, and it's not an emergency. I've got a smoke detector in my basement that is going off. It's near a dryer and near my oil furnace, but there is no visible fire. I know that a shower can make a smoke detector go off. Is there something that I'm overlooking that would cause this to happen?

Answer
First off, if it is indeed a "smoke detector" than rule out Carbon Monoxide, because that's a completely different detector. However, CO detectors CAN look just like a smoke detector, so make sure it isn't a CO detector or you may have anohter problem all together!

If it is a smoke detector, try using the attachments on your vaccum cleaner to suck any dust out of it that may have built up over time. A can of compressed air can also be used to "blow" the dust out. Detectors will often "false alarm" if there is dust built up inside the sensing chamber.

Low batteries do not generally cause a false alarm, but if you haven't replaced the battery in awhile, it's certainly not a bad idea.

Nothing lasts forever. If the detector is older than 10 or 15 years, you may want to consider replacing it with a new one. The battery powered ones are typically about $10, while the hardwired ones will run you about $30.

Good luck.

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