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Tampilkan postingan dengan label carbon monoxide detectors canada. Tampilkan semua postingan

Sabtu, 12 April 2014

Should I Be Scared To Get A Fire At My Home?




Damian Kry


i heard that last week, a house on gage ave. Hamilton, Ontario, was caught on fire. the whole house was gone. and it was most likely caused by a gas leak. a woman had critical conditions. she is now in hospital. 2 girls 22 and 20 had escaped. (the fire started in the basement) and the mom was down there. and she was trapped. the firefighters took her out, she was pronounced dead, but she got revived. but the 2 daughters are still facing the fact that they may lose their mother. she may already be dead, im not sure. there are no updates that i can find. here's the full story: http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/hamilton/news/firefighters-pull-woman-from-burning-basement-1.2444018

there was more than 1 link. there should be 1 or 2 more:

http://www.thespec.com/news-story/4249527-gage-street-fire-victims-starting-from-scratch-/

keep them in your prayers.


my question is "should i be scared that my house may get a gas leak? we have insurance, but still i dont want to lose my home. homes take a while to re-build. and im just worried that "what if we have a gas leak"? should i be scared? or should i not worry? are fires rare? are gas leaks rare? how can you prevent gas leaks? how can you be sure that your house wont catch on fire? i am scared now, because they are not far. gage is only 4 or 5 streets away. and i dont wanna lose my parents. we wont have clothes, water, food, furniture, shelter. please help. i will give 15 points to who answers this question. but can you explain to me how to give 15 points to best answer? idk how too. i was scared to even go to bed, i didnt want to wake up dead. so please. if its a really good answer. i will give 20 points. anything to get me to stop thinking that my house will catch on fire...

please answer right away!!!!!
Thank You.....
15 or 20 points not too who only answers it, to the best answer.



Answer
when things like this happen it does make you stop and think
we got carbon monoxide detectors fitted when there was a news article about people succumbing to fumes

its great that you are now vigilant, but you cannot let it rule your life
make sure everything is on good working order, a gas inspection is done and up to date
and relax

Is it safe to use a natural gas oven to heat a house?




funkybass4


are the fumes dangerous?


Answer
no
Carbon monoxide is a lot like an elusive criminal -- it's highly dangerous and you can't see or smell it. In fact, it's often called "the silent killer."


You can protect your family from the dangers of this deadly gas by taking preventive measures and by learning to recognize the symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Check out the following safety tips to keep your home safe from the build up of dangerous carbon monoxide. If you need more information about carbon monoxide poisoning and prevention, call the Poison Control Center at 1-800-POISON-1 (1-800-764-7661).

Traditionally, few people have considered gas ovens to be a major source of carbon monoxide (CO), even though all their exhaust products are often vented directly into the indoor air of a residence. Yet unvented space heaters with a similar output of combustion gases have been banned in many states because of indoor air quality (IAQ) dangers inherent in their use.

CO poisoning in homes is generally the most serious of the wide variety of IAQ problems, in that people can die quickly from it, whereas most other such problems can be considered chronic. Weatherization personnel must perform a variety of combustion safety tests to determine if CO is being produced by any of the combustion appliances in a residence. If they find dangerously high levels, the crew should know how to fix the problem.


CO and Its Effects

Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless, nonirritating, but highly toxic, gas. It is flammable and slightly lighter than air. It is produced whenever there is incomplete combustion of hydrocarbon fuels--that is, when there is insufficient air to burn the fuel completely. The highest concentrations of CO typically occur at start-up of the appliance. This is especially true of ovens, because little or no air can flow through the oven until the air inside it heats and rises out of the exhaust vent.

High levels of CO cause headaches, nausea, shortness of breath, dizziness, confusion, brain damage, and, in severe cases, death. CO strangles the victim by reducing the amount of oxygen that can get to cells and impairing the body's usage of oxygen even if it reaches the cellular level. Victims should be removed from the exposure, though symptoms often persist well after removal from the source. That is because the so-called half life of CO in blood--the time for the peak concentration to decline to half its original value--is about four hours.

Often the symptoms are similar to those of flu. People who may have been exposed to CO should go to the hospital for a simple blood test. Another option is to check carboxyhemoglobin levels in the blood using a breath CO detector. A relatively inexpensive ($95) attachment is now available for Bacharach MONOXOR II carbon monoxide monitors, which are widely used for combustion safety testing.

Symptoms are related to the exposure level and time of exposure. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends that a person should not breathe CO concentrations of 9 parts per million (ppm) or higher for any eight-hour period; 35 ppm or higher for any one-hour period; or 200 ppm or higher at any one time. Moreover, a person should not be exposed to any one of these three conditions more than once per year. The World Health Organization and Health Canada recommend a maximum exposure of 25 ppm for a one-hour period. ASHRAE Standard 62-1989 recommends an exposure limit of no more than 9 ppm in a living space, and Japan has an indoor standard that limits exposure to 10 ppm for any duration.

Recommended Oven CO Test Protocol

All gas and propane ovens should be tested for combustion safety, since they can be a major source of carbon monoxide (CO).
Test the oven in its as-found condition (do not clean or adjust) before starting any weatherization.
Use an electronic CO meter with a range of 0 ppm-2,000 ppm and a resolution of 1 ppm, such as the Bacharach MONOXOR II. Older nonelectronic meters or diffusion tubes are not suitable.
Zero the CO meter. This is typically done outdoors in a rural or unpolluted area. Do not rezero for individual houses. Calibrate the meter with 10 ppm and 500 ppm calibration gas about every six months (check zero at this time).
Turn the kitchen exhaust hood on, if one exists, to avoid exposing test personnel to potential CO.
Insert the CO meter probe tip well into the oven exhaust vent (typically an opening about 1 in high by 5 in wide centered in the back dial section on the top of the stove). The intent is to monitor the exhaust gases inside the oven exhaust before they are outside the oven and diluted with air.
Turn the meter on and then turn the oven on bake at 350deg.F with the oven door closed.
Watch the CO meter reading rise and record the peak or maximum reading. It should typically reach a peak within about 5 to 10 minutes and then begin to drop back down again to a steady value after a much longer time.
If the peak value is less than 100 ppm, the oven is not producing elevated levels of CO and need not be tuned or adjusted. Weatherization can continue.
If the peak value is greater than 100 ppm, turn the oven off. It is producing elevated levels of CO that could cause adverse health effects. It needs to be cleaned, tuned, or otherwise adjusted prior to or in conjunction with any air tightening of the dwelling.
If aluminum foil is lining the oven bottom, it needs to be removed or perforated along its edges so the secondary air holes in the oven bottom are not blocked. Such blockage is a major cause of high CO levels.
If the CO levels are still above 100 ppm after removing or fixing the foil, or if no foil is present, clean or tune the oven.
After the oven has completely cooled (at least 30 minutes with the oven off and the oven door open), turn the oven back on. Recheck the peak CO level in the oven exhaust gases.
Continue to adjust and recheck the peak exhaust CO level until it is below 100 ppm; only then continue with weatherization. Almost all ovens can be satisfactorily tuned in the field.
If, after repeated tuning attempts, the CO levels are still elevated, call the oven manufacturer. A few models cannot be satisfactorily tuned.
If the occupants complain of headaches, nausea, flulike symptoms, or worse, or if a home CO detector alarm has gone off recently, measure the occupants' CO blood levels with a breathalizer or recommend that the occupants get a blood test immediately at a hospital. Turn off all combustion appliances.
In extreme cases, it may be advisable to measure the maximum steady CO level in the kitchen air. After oven start-up it typically takes at least an hour to reach that level in loose dwellings and may take upwards of 8 to10 hours in very tight homes.
Consider giving any client whose dwelling has any type of CO combustion appliance, or at least those whose oven was not satisfactory, a home CO detector. Types with an LED readout are preferable (see "Conservation Clips: CO Detectors Not Created Equal" p. 63).
Two important caveats:

(1) This protocol does not apply to convection ovens, which have been known to blow hot air full of CO into the auditor's face. (2) A separate protocol needs to be developed for testing stove burners. In both cases, the indoor CO level should be tested.

Field Test Findings

Excessive carbon monoxide production from combustion appliances and CO poisoning are much more common than has previously been recognized. Among 25 homes with gas ovens tested in an ongoing survey by Montana Power Company's Low-Income Weatherization Program in Kalispell, Montana, CO concentration in the kitchen was found to be greater than 9 ppm in the cooking area in every case.

At Portland State University (PSU), my group measured IAQ in 23 low-income homes. One-third had ovens that caused levels in the cooking area to exceed the eight-hour 9 ppm standard after 20 minutes. However, 10 of the 23 cases showed CO levels increasing with time. (CO levels from the oven operation were monitored at 3, 10, and 20 minutes after turning on the oven.) That indicated the need to go back and continue testing over a longer time period. Most of the apartments or homes were fairly small and apparently leaky, demonstrating that leaky dwellings, as well as tight ones, are vulnerable.

In the few cases where CO released from stoves has been monitored, the stoves probably were not left on long enough to reach the maximum CO levels in the kitchen air. We conducted a follow-up study in Portland to determine just how long it takes to reach steady-state conditions (maximum indoor CO levels). Sixty ovens were monitored in two relatively leaky apartment buildings with the oven set on broil and the oven door closed. Half of the readings were over 9 ppm, and 15% were over the one-hour 35 ppm standard level.

The minimum time for an oven to reach maximum CO levels in the surrounding air was 20 minutes, but the average was 45 minutes to 60 minutes. Reaching equilibrium in that short a time implies that the apartments were very leaky, as was the case. Had they been much more airtight, it could have taken many hours to reach steady-state conditions, though the steady-state level would be higher than that in the leakier units. Tight homes also tend to have higher indoor CO levels from long-term oven operation.

The study also found that CO levels in the exhaust ports can indicate potential IAQ problems. In the field tests, about 40% of the ovens had CO production levels in excess of 50 ppm in their undiluted exhaust port at the time of the maximum CO reading in the kitchen air; the highest reading was over 2,000 ppm, and the average was 100 ppm. Ovens should be tuned if the steady-state CO levels in their undiluted exhaust gases is above about 25 ppm. Higher exhaust concentrations can produce indoor air readings above 9 ppm, with consequent adverse health effects.

Other field tests have corroborated the studies in Montana and Oregon. One low-income home I tested in Philadelphia had a CO level of 330 ppm in the kitchen air after only five minutes of oven operation! Similar problems were found with hundreds of homes in a study directed by Bruce Davis as part of low-income weatherization efforts in Arkansas. In almost every case the excess CO levels in the oven exhaust ports were reduced to below about 25 ppm after the oven was cleaned or adjusted.

It is particularly important to recognize that gas ovens are used as either the main or a supplemental space heating source in numerous U.S. homes, especially low-income homes. Two medical studies have indicated that 40%-50% of all urban low-income dwellings are heated with their ranges. It would seem reasonable that a similarly large fraction of nonurban low-income dwellings are heated in the same way. Given that about half of the ranges in the United States are gas or propane fired, and that about 20% of the U.S. population is classified as low-income, the potential problem is enormous.

The evidence suggests as much. In a recent study of the factors setting off CO detector alarms after their use was mandated in Chicago, stoves (either stove burners or ovens) were deemed responsible in 78% of the cases. At one Kentucky hospital, when patients coming into the emergency room with flulike symptoms were given blood tests, about 25% were found to have CO poisoning. These limited test results indicate that combustion appliance operation is often unacceptable. Monitoring for safety should be the first priority for weatherization crews.



Oven Repair

There is very little information readily available on how to adjust, clean, or otherwise tune an oven that is producing excessive levels of CO. However, experience in Arkansas with more than 300 ovens and in a PSU research project indicates that the following items should be checked:

Primary air adjustment--check the shutter opening. This is very important.
Fuel orifice size. The size will be different for liquified petroleum (LP) and natural gas.
Oven supply pressure. It is usually best to maintain the value stamped on the plate--usually 3.5-4.5 in of water (870-1,100 Pa) for natural gas and 9-11 in (2,200-2,700 Pa) for LP. Also check rated heat input on the plate and ensure that the orifice and pressure combination provides that input.
Secondary air path. Secondary air holes should be cleaned or cleared; pay special attention to the presence of aluminum foil lining the bottom of the oven and covering the secondary air holes.
Burner and pilot. These should be cleaned.
The good news is that most ovens can easily be repaired so that they emit little or no CO in the exhaust port, typically below 100 ppm peak or 25 ppm steady state. Ovens are basically simple devices, and repair tools cost little. A Dwyer, Ritchie, Bacharach, or other brand U-tube manometer to measure the gas pressure should cost between $10 and $40. A small brass wire brush, flair wrenches, and an asbestos glove are used for tuning as well.

Kitchen Exhaust Fans

Ventilating combustion products directly out of the kitchen eliminates the opportunity for them to affect occupants. This would get rid of CO and also oxides of nitrogen that are always present. These pollutants are a special concern in tight houses.

Kitchen fans are generally noisy, in part because they have relatively high flow rates. If they are too noisy, people will be reluctant to use them. Thus in selecting an exhaust fan to install in an existing home, look for one that is relatively quiet. It may require a fan with a somewhat lower capacity, but that is probably a good tradeoff. It's better to have a lower-power fan that is used than a high-power one that isn't. One fairly quiet option for retrofitting a fan into an existing home is remote installation: an axial fan that is rated for greasy air can be installed in an attic.

Finally, it is important to educate clients about the need to use their kitchen exhaust fan (if one exists) whenever the range is operating. Often people think that the only reason to use it is to get rid of cooking odors. Using fans can help reduce indoor pollutant concentrations by removing the pollutants at their source.

Whether or not an exhaust fan exists, safety tests should be performed in any home with combustion appliances, particularly before any weatherization efforts are undertaken. These simple tests have the potential to eliminate a serious safety problem.




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Rabu, 02 April 2014

Could furnace have a failing secondary heat exchanger?




Stuck in t


Our 18 year old Carrier Weathermaker has a strong, sour smell coming from the PVC pipe to the outdoors. In the past week, the furnace fan also often continues after the heat has stopped, so cold air is being forced through our house until I turn off the gas and electric to the furnace and press the manual button on the side of the fire box (my term, as I know little about this stuff).

I am looking at having the furnace replaced because two service people said that this is a major problem and that carbon monoxide could leak into the house. Just to avoid the obvious, I should mention that the air filter is clean and that the limit switch was replaced recently in an effort to fix the fan problem. The fan problem and sour smell continues. I also see a small amount of condensation/water in the furnace.

I read on the internet that Carrier settled a suit alleging that secondary heat exchangers were designed of poor materials and could fail early. As a result, Carrier agrred to replace the secondary heat exchanger if it failed (both parts and labor).

Because I have no idea whether this is the problem...any experts out there who could tell me if it might be?

Thanks.



Answer
It sounds to me like the secondary heat exchanger may have failed, causing the furnace to shut off the heating element but not the fan. That would explain why you are getting cold air blowing through the house - because the thermostat thinks it should still be in heating mode, and so keeps the fan going, but the furnace thinks (probably correctly) that it's not safe to keep the flame on.

Carbon monoxide poisoning is a very real risk in the case of a cracked secondary heat exchanger, so if I were you I would not wait long to replace your furnace. I would also make sure you have a CO detector in every bedroom in your house, so if things do deteriorate to the point where your furnace is leaking CO into the house, you know it instantly and don't asphyxiate in your sleep.

And you are right, there was a class action settlement in both the US and Canada relating to these faulty heat exchangers, although I believe many of the heat exchangers that cracked early on (and caused the class action lawsuits to launch) were the result of installers selling oversized furnaces, which tend to cycle more frequently and therefore cause more wear on components.

In any case, the Carrier settlement is not likely to help you out very much because your furnace is so old and the settlement was prorated based on furnace age. You might get a couple of hundred dollars towards a new furnace. They may pay the full amount to replace the heat exchanger (it should cover both parts and service - don't let the HVAC company charge you a cent) but a furnace isn't really expected to last more than about 20 years, so maybe you just lost out and have to replace yours a couple of years early.

I know the cracked heat exchanger problem has made a lot of people unhappy about Carrier but in fact they are really one of the best furnace companies on the market, and I know several installers who won't install anything else. I installed a Bryant furnace in my own home 13 years ago and it has never caused me any problems (Bryant and Carrier are both made by the same company.) The Carrier Infinity ICS furnace is probably the best furnace on the market - and won't have the same heat exchanger problem you're experiencing.

The business I work for uses charcoal indoors?




Joe B


I work for a restaurant that uses charcoal indoors. They do not have adequate ventilation (the kitchen becomes extremely smokey at times) and the ventilation that they do have is extremely clogged and old. I have contacted OSHA twice and filed complaints, never got a call back and have not been able to contact them. I have also contacted the local fire commissioner, he never called me back either. Is there anything I can do about this? I would just like a professional safety worker to check this system out, because we all know that charcoal burning emits carbon monoxide. Anyone have any ideas? Anyone that I could call?


Answer
Checking for Carbon Monoxide is a relatively simple matter, there are CO detectors from Industrial Scientific (the M-40) for less than $400.00. Virtually any Safety Professional could do a test.

Assessing this situation is a little more complicated though. There is not just CO involved, there is the smoke itself which contains other byproducts and chemicals. What you really need is an Industrial Hygienist to have a look at the system. They specialize in chemical and environmental hazards and would be able to calculate the air changes per hour necessary to keep the air healthy.

I do find it odd that OSHA has not acted. I am from Canada, but I would assume they are like our Provinces OH&S Department and would be obligated to act on complaints. I would try again. If they still fail to act, OSHA must answer to an elected offical somewhere along the line. Public officials usually act when their voters take up issues with them.

If all else fails, you can try to convince your emplyer to go down to Wal-Mart and buy a CO detector. The ones you buy there are not as sensitive as the M-40 and will not give you instant read outs, but they will go off if the CO is above the safe levels for a period of time.

Good luck!




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Minggu, 08 Desember 2013

Regarding vent free wall heaters.?

carbon monoxide detectors canada on Trademark Search > Trademark Category > Computer & Software Products ...
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Q. c.h&a, system went out,we installed 2 1,000 sq.ft wall heaters vent free 1 in the front room to heat front room and kitchen,approximately 1000 sq.ft. The other in a hallway 4ft. x 33 ft,,to heat 3brs,1 bath.all ceiling fans are running.with this much space,and them being vent free should i be concerened with carbon monoxide?We are going to get some detectors today,but my wife and I woke up tired,not normal for us.But kids are energetic.Anyway should I be cocerned? thanks in advance.


Answer
You can have a "vent free" gas appliance that will throw off some heat, water vapour, traces of carbon monoxide, sulphur dioxide and oxides of nitrogen, and may, if it's not maintained properly, operated or installed correctly, kill you and your family in your sleep...Or, you can have a "direct-vent" heater that uses outside air in a sealed combustion system, which only puts HEAT into your home, allowing you and your family to sleep in safety, knowing that even if the burner acts up and starts to produce carbon monoxide you aren't going to be breathing it!

I apologize for being abrupt. But I feel very strongly about the inherit dangers of these things. Especially if it is in a sleeping area! I only wish you had asked this question before you purchased and installed them. There is a very real reason these appliances are not even legal to install anywhere in Canada and parts of the US.

My personal and professional opinion is to remove them from any sleeping area!

To answer your question directly...Yes!!! Be very concerned. And watch those appliances like a hawk. Make sure your monoxide detectors are in perfect shape on a very regular basis.

Could furnace have a failing secondary heat exchanger?




Stuck in t


Our 18 year old Carrier Weathermaker has a strong, sour smell coming from the PVC pipe to the outdoors. In the past week, the furnace fan also often continues after the heat has stopped, so cold air is being forced through our house until I turn off the gas and electric to the furnace and press the manual button on the side of the fire box (my term, as I know little about this stuff).

I am looking at having the furnace replaced because two service people said that this is a major problem and that carbon monoxide could leak into the house. Just to avoid the obvious, I should mention that the air filter is clean and that the limit switch was replaced recently in an effort to fix the fan problem. The fan problem and sour smell continues. I also see a small amount of condensation/water in the furnace.

I read on the internet that Carrier settled a suit alleging that secondary heat exchangers were designed of poor materials and could fail early. As a result, Carrier agrred to replace the secondary heat exchanger if it failed (both parts and labor).

Because I have no idea whether this is the problem...any experts out there who could tell me if it might be?

Thanks.



Answer
It sounds to me like the secondary heat exchanger may have failed, causing the furnace to shut off the heating element but not the fan. That would explain why you are getting cold air blowing through the house - because the thermostat thinks it should still be in heating mode, and so keeps the fan going, but the furnace thinks (probably correctly) that it's not safe to keep the flame on.

Carbon monoxide poisoning is a very real risk in the case of a cracked secondary heat exchanger, so if I were you I would not wait long to replace your furnace. I would also make sure you have a CO detector in every bedroom in your house, so if things do deteriorate to the point where your furnace is leaking CO into the house, you know it instantly and don't asphyxiate in your sleep.

And you are right, there was a class action settlement in both the US and Canada relating to these faulty heat exchangers, although I believe many of the heat exchangers that cracked early on (and caused the class action lawsuits to launch) were the result of installers selling oversized furnaces, which tend to cycle more frequently and therefore cause more wear on components.

In any case, the Carrier settlement is not likely to help you out very much because your furnace is so old and the settlement was prorated based on furnace age. You might get a couple of hundred dollars towards a new furnace. They may pay the full amount to replace the heat exchanger (it should cover both parts and service - don't let the HVAC company charge you a cent) but a furnace isn't really expected to last more than about 20 years, so maybe you just lost out and have to replace yours a couple of years early.

I know the cracked heat exchanger problem has made a lot of people unhappy about Carrier but in fact they are really one of the best furnace companies on the market, and I know several installers who won't install anything else. I installed a Bryant furnace in my own home 13 years ago and it has never caused me any problems (Bryant and Carrier are both made by the same company.) The Carrier Infinity ICS furnace is probably the best furnace on the market - and won't have the same heat exchanger problem you're experiencing.




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Sabtu, 23 November 2013

Is it safe to use a natural gas oven to heat a house?

carbon monoxide detectors canada on ... Monoxide Alarm, Carbon Monoxide Alarms, Carbon Monoxide Detectors
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funkybass4


are the fumes dangerous?


Answer
no
Carbon monoxide is a lot like an elusive criminal -- it's highly dangerous and you can't see or smell it. In fact, it's often called "the silent killer."


You can protect your family from the dangers of this deadly gas by taking preventive measures and by learning to recognize the symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Check out the following safety tips to keep your home safe from the build up of dangerous carbon monoxide. If you need more information about carbon monoxide poisoning and prevention, call the Poison Control Center at 1-800-POISON-1 (1-800-764-7661).

Traditionally, few people have considered gas ovens to be a major source of carbon monoxide (CO), even though all their exhaust products are often vented directly into the indoor air of a residence. Yet unvented space heaters with a similar output of combustion gases have been banned in many states because of indoor air quality (IAQ) dangers inherent in their use.

CO poisoning in homes is generally the most serious of the wide variety of IAQ problems, in that people can die quickly from it, whereas most other such problems can be considered chronic. Weatherization personnel must perform a variety of combustion safety tests to determine if CO is being produced by any of the combustion appliances in a residence. If they find dangerously high levels, the crew should know how to fix the problem.


CO and Its Effects

Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless, nonirritating, but highly toxic, gas. It is flammable and slightly lighter than air. It is produced whenever there is incomplete combustion of hydrocarbon fuels--that is, when there is insufficient air to burn the fuel completely. The highest concentrations of CO typically occur at start-up of the appliance. This is especially true of ovens, because little or no air can flow through the oven until the air inside it heats and rises out of the exhaust vent.

High levels of CO cause headaches, nausea, shortness of breath, dizziness, confusion, brain damage, and, in severe cases, death. CO strangles the victim by reducing the amount of oxygen that can get to cells and impairing the body's usage of oxygen even if it reaches the cellular level. Victims should be removed from the exposure, though symptoms often persist well after removal from the source. That is because the so-called half life of CO in blood--the time for the peak concentration to decline to half its original value--is about four hours.

Often the symptoms are similar to those of flu. People who may have been exposed to CO should go to the hospital for a simple blood test. Another option is to check carboxyhemoglobin levels in the blood using a breath CO detector. A relatively inexpensive ($95) attachment is now available for Bacharach MONOXOR II carbon monoxide monitors, which are widely used for combustion safety testing.

Symptoms are related to the exposure level and time of exposure. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends that a person should not breathe CO concentrations of 9 parts per million (ppm) or higher for any eight-hour period; 35 ppm or higher for any one-hour period; or 200 ppm or higher at any one time. Moreover, a person should not be exposed to any one of these three conditions more than once per year. The World Health Organization and Health Canada recommend a maximum exposure of 25 ppm for a one-hour period. ASHRAE Standard 62-1989 recommends an exposure limit of no more than 9 ppm in a living space, and Japan has an indoor standard that limits exposure to 10 ppm for any duration.

Recommended Oven CO Test Protocol

All gas and propane ovens should be tested for combustion safety, since they can be a major source of carbon monoxide (CO).
Test the oven in its as-found condition (do not clean or adjust) before starting any weatherization.
Use an electronic CO meter with a range of 0 ppm-2,000 ppm and a resolution of 1 ppm, such as the Bacharach MONOXOR II. Older nonelectronic meters or diffusion tubes are not suitable.
Zero the CO meter. This is typically done outdoors in a rural or unpolluted area. Do not rezero for individual houses. Calibrate the meter with 10 ppm and 500 ppm calibration gas about every six months (check zero at this time).
Turn the kitchen exhaust hood on, if one exists, to avoid exposing test personnel to potential CO.
Insert the CO meter probe tip well into the oven exhaust vent (typically an opening about 1 in high by 5 in wide centered in the back dial section on the top of the stove). The intent is to monitor the exhaust gases inside the oven exhaust before they are outside the oven and diluted with air.
Turn the meter on and then turn the oven on bake at 350deg.F with the oven door closed.
Watch the CO meter reading rise and record the peak or maximum reading. It should typically reach a peak within about 5 to 10 minutes and then begin to drop back down again to a steady value after a much longer time.
If the peak value is less than 100 ppm, the oven is not producing elevated levels of CO and need not be tuned or adjusted. Weatherization can continue.
If the peak value is greater than 100 ppm, turn the oven off. It is producing elevated levels of CO that could cause adverse health effects. It needs to be cleaned, tuned, or otherwise adjusted prior to or in conjunction with any air tightening of the dwelling.
If aluminum foil is lining the oven bottom, it needs to be removed or perforated along its edges so the secondary air holes in the oven bottom are not blocked. Such blockage is a major cause of high CO levels.
If the CO levels are still above 100 ppm after removing or fixing the foil, or if no foil is present, clean or tune the oven.
After the oven has completely cooled (at least 30 minutes with the oven off and the oven door open), turn the oven back on. Recheck the peak CO level in the oven exhaust gases.
Continue to adjust and recheck the peak exhaust CO level until it is below 100 ppm; only then continue with weatherization. Almost all ovens can be satisfactorily tuned in the field.
If, after repeated tuning attempts, the CO levels are still elevated, call the oven manufacturer. A few models cannot be satisfactorily tuned.
If the occupants complain of headaches, nausea, flulike symptoms, or worse, or if a home CO detector alarm has gone off recently, measure the occupants' CO blood levels with a breathalizer or recommend that the occupants get a blood test immediately at a hospital. Turn off all combustion appliances.
In extreme cases, it may be advisable to measure the maximum steady CO level in the kitchen air. After oven start-up it typically takes at least an hour to reach that level in loose dwellings and may take upwards of 8 to10 hours in very tight homes.
Consider giving any client whose dwelling has any type of CO combustion appliance, or at least those whose oven was not satisfactory, a home CO detector. Types with an LED readout are preferable (see "Conservation Clips: CO Detectors Not Created Equal" p. 63).
Two important caveats:

(1) This protocol does not apply to convection ovens, which have been known to blow hot air full of CO into the auditor's face. (2) A separate protocol needs to be developed for testing stove burners. In both cases, the indoor CO level should be tested.

Field Test Findings

Excessive carbon monoxide production from combustion appliances and CO poisoning are much more common than has previously been recognized. Among 25 homes with gas ovens tested in an ongoing survey by Montana Power Company's Low-Income Weatherization Program in Kalispell, Montana, CO concentration in the kitchen was found to be greater than 9 ppm in the cooking area in every case.

At Portland State University (PSU), my group measured IAQ in 23 low-income homes. One-third had ovens that caused levels in the cooking area to exceed the eight-hour 9 ppm standard after 20 minutes. However, 10 of the 23 cases showed CO levels increasing with time. (CO levels from the oven operation were monitored at 3, 10, and 20 minutes after turning on the oven.) That indicated the need to go back and continue testing over a longer time period. Most of the apartments or homes were fairly small and apparently leaky, demonstrating that leaky dwellings, as well as tight ones, are vulnerable.

In the few cases where CO released from stoves has been monitored, the stoves probably were not left on long enough to reach the maximum CO levels in the kitchen air. We conducted a follow-up study in Portland to determine just how long it takes to reach steady-state conditions (maximum indoor CO levels). Sixty ovens were monitored in two relatively leaky apartment buildings with the oven set on broil and the oven door closed. Half of the readings were over 9 ppm, and 15% were over the one-hour 35 ppm standard level.

The minimum time for an oven to reach maximum CO levels in the surrounding air was 20 minutes, but the average was 45 minutes to 60 minutes. Reaching equilibrium in that short a time implies that the apartments were very leaky, as was the case. Had they been much more airtight, it could have taken many hours to reach steady-state conditions, though the steady-state level would be higher than that in the leakier units. Tight homes also tend to have higher indoor CO levels from long-term oven operation.

The study also found that CO levels in the exhaust ports can indicate potential IAQ problems. In the field tests, about 40% of the ovens had CO production levels in excess of 50 ppm in their undiluted exhaust port at the time of the maximum CO reading in the kitchen air; the highest reading was over 2,000 ppm, and the average was 100 ppm. Ovens should be tuned if the steady-state CO levels in their undiluted exhaust gases is above about 25 ppm. Higher exhaust concentrations can produce indoor air readings above 9 ppm, with consequent adverse health effects.

Other field tests have corroborated the studies in Montana and Oregon. One low-income home I tested in Philadelphia had a CO level of 330 ppm in the kitchen air after only five minutes of oven operation! Similar problems were found with hundreds of homes in a study directed by Bruce Davis as part of low-income weatherization efforts in Arkansas. In almost every case the excess CO levels in the oven exhaust ports were reduced to below about 25 ppm after the oven was cleaned or adjusted.

It is particularly important to recognize that gas ovens are used as either the main or a supplemental space heating source in numerous U.S. homes, especially low-income homes. Two medical studies have indicated that 40%-50% of all urban low-income dwellings are heated with their ranges. It would seem reasonable that a similarly large fraction of nonurban low-income dwellings are heated in the same way. Given that about half of the ranges in the United States are gas or propane fired, and that about 20% of the U.S. population is classified as low-income, the potential problem is enormous.

The evidence suggests as much. In a recent study of the factors setting off CO detector alarms after their use was mandated in Chicago, stoves (either stove burners or ovens) were deemed responsible in 78% of the cases. At one Kentucky hospital, when patients coming into the emergency room with flulike symptoms were given blood tests, about 25% were found to have CO poisoning. These limited test results indicate that combustion appliance operation is often unacceptable. Monitoring for safety should be the first priority for weatherization crews.



Oven Repair

There is very little information readily available on how to adjust, clean, or otherwise tune an oven that is producing excessive levels of CO. However, experience in Arkansas with more than 300 ovens and in a PSU research project indicates that the following items should be checked:

Primary air adjustment--check the shutter opening. This is very important.
Fuel orifice size. The size will be different for liquified petroleum (LP) and natural gas.
Oven supply pressure. It is usually best to maintain the value stamped on the plate--usually 3.5-4.5 in of water (870-1,100 Pa) for natural gas and 9-11 in (2,200-2,700 Pa) for LP. Also check rated heat input on the plate and ensure that the orifice and pressure combination provides that input.
Secondary air path. Secondary air holes should be cleaned or cleared; pay special attention to the presence of aluminum foil lining the bottom of the oven and covering the secondary air holes.
Burner and pilot. These should be cleaned.
The good news is that most ovens can easily be repaired so that they emit little or no CO in the exhaust port, typically below 100 ppm peak or 25 ppm steady state. Ovens are basically simple devices, and repair tools cost little. A Dwyer, Ritchie, Bacharach, or other brand U-tube manometer to measure the gas pressure should cost between $10 and $40. A small brass wire brush, flair wrenches, and an asbestos glove are used for tuning as well.

Kitchen Exhaust Fans

Ventilating combustion products directly out of the kitchen eliminates the opportunity for them to affect occupants. This would get rid of CO and also oxides of nitrogen that are always present. These pollutants are a special concern in tight houses.

Kitchen fans are generally noisy, in part because they have relatively high flow rates. If they are too noisy, people will be reluctant to use them. Thus in selecting an exhaust fan to install in an existing home, look for one that is relatively quiet. It may require a fan with a somewhat lower capacity, but that is probably a good tradeoff. It's better to have a lower-power fan that is used than a high-power one that isn't. One fairly quiet option for retrofitting a fan into an existing home is remote installation: an axial fan that is rated for greasy air can be installed in an attic.

Finally, it is important to educate clients about the need to use their kitchen exhaust fan (if one exists) whenever the range is operating. Often people think that the only reason to use it is to get rid of cooking odors. Using fans can help reduce indoor pollutant concentrations by removing the pollutants at their source.

Whether or not an exhaust fan exists, safety tests should be performed in any home with combustion appliances, particularly before any weatherization efforts are undertaken. These simple tests have the potential to eliminate a serious safety problem.

vent free fireplace why do I get black soot?




robin oxfo


my vent free fireplace leaves a black smoke soot on my walls and ceiling what do I do to get read of it.Tired of washing walls all summer long to happen again HELP


Answer
Nice eh? And your breathing that crap too! That's why vent-free appliances are illegal in all of Canada and quite a few states. That's my rant for the day out of the way!

First of all, those appliances were never designed to be a primary heat source ( or a secondary one for that matter!). They were meant as a decorative applance that only sees a few hours of usage in a week. If it has always produced soot from the day it was first installed, you may very well have incorrect orifices for the fuel you are operating on. There should be a rating plate on the burner somewhere telling you what fuel it is set up for and how many btu the burner is. Confirm that the burner is set up for your fuel. If it is not, you need to contact the manufacturer for a proper conversion kit.

If this is a problem that has suddenly developed, I would suggest you have a certified technician come in and clean and service the appliance. There is a specific tool ( a monometer ) that is required to precisely adjust the fuel pressure to the appliance. This isn't something you want to try and repair yourself. If you get it wrong you could be producing harmful emmisions like carbon monoxide.

I sincerely hope you have carbon monoxide detectors in that home! If you don't, get some right away.

Good luck with it and be safe!




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Kamis, 26 September 2013

Regarding vent free wall heaters.?

carbon monoxide detectors canada on Carbon monoxide scare in Calgary caused by indoor BBQ
carbon monoxide detectors canada image
Q. c.h&a, system went out,we installed 2 1,000 sq.ft wall heaters vent free 1 in the front room to heat front room and kitchen,approximately 1000 sq.ft. The other in a hallway 4ft. x 33 ft,,to heat 3brs,1 bath.all ceiling fans are running.with this much space,and them being vent free should i be concerened with carbon monoxide?We are going to get some detectors today,but my wife and I woke up tired,not normal for us.But kids are energetic.Anyway should I be cocerned? thanks in advance.


Answer
You can have a "vent free" gas appliance that will throw off some heat, water vapour, traces of carbon monoxide, sulphur dioxide and oxides of nitrogen, and may, if it's not maintained properly, operated or installed correctly, kill you and your family in your sleep...Or, you can have a "direct-vent" heater that uses outside air in a sealed combustion system, which only puts HEAT into your home, allowing you and your family to sleep in safety, knowing that even if the burner acts up and starts to produce carbon monoxide you aren't going to be breathing it!

I apologize for being abrupt. But I feel very strongly about the inherit dangers of these things. Especially if it is in a sleeping area! I only wish you had asked this question before you purchased and installed them. There is a very real reason these appliances are not even legal to install anywhere in Canada and parts of the US.

My personal and professional opinion is to remove them from any sleeping area!

To answer your question directly...Yes!!! Be very concerned. And watch those appliances like a hawk. Make sure your monoxide detectors are in perfect shape on a very regular basis.

Could furnace have a failing secondary heat exchanger?




Stuck in t


Our 18 year old Carrier Weathermaker has a strong, sour smell coming from the PVC pipe to the outdoors. In the past week, the furnace fan also often continues after the heat has stopped, so cold air is being forced through our house until I turn off the gas and electric to the furnace and press the manual button on the side of the fire box (my term, as I know little about this stuff).

I am looking at having the furnace replaced because two service people said that this is a major problem and that carbon monoxide could leak into the house. Just to avoid the obvious, I should mention that the air filter is clean and that the limit switch was replaced recently in an effort to fix the fan problem. The fan problem and sour smell continues. I also see a small amount of condensation/water in the furnace.

I read on the internet that Carrier settled a suit alleging that secondary heat exchangers were designed of poor materials and could fail early. As a result, Carrier agrred to replace the secondary heat exchanger if it failed (both parts and labor).

Because I have no idea whether this is the problem...any experts out there who could tell me if it might be?

Thanks.



Answer
It sounds to me like the secondary heat exchanger may have failed, causing the furnace to shut off the heating element but not the fan. That would explain why you are getting cold air blowing through the house - because the thermostat thinks it should still be in heating mode, and so keeps the fan going, but the furnace thinks (probably correctly) that it's not safe to keep the flame on.

Carbon monoxide poisoning is a very real risk in the case of a cracked secondary heat exchanger, so if I were you I would not wait long to replace your furnace. I would also make sure you have a CO detector in every bedroom in your house, so if things do deteriorate to the point where your furnace is leaking CO into the house, you know it instantly and don't asphyxiate in your sleep.

And you are right, there was a class action settlement in both the US and Canada relating to these faulty heat exchangers, although I believe many of the heat exchangers that cracked early on (and caused the class action lawsuits to launch) were the result of installers selling oversized furnaces, which tend to cycle more frequently and therefore cause more wear on components.

In any case, the Carrier settlement is not likely to help you out very much because your furnace is so old and the settlement was prorated based on furnace age. You might get a couple of hundred dollars towards a new furnace. They may pay the full amount to replace the heat exchanger (it should cover both parts and service - don't let the HVAC company charge you a cent) but a furnace isn't really expected to last more than about 20 years, so maybe you just lost out and have to replace yours a couple of years early.

I know the cracked heat exchanger problem has made a lot of people unhappy about Carrier but in fact they are really one of the best furnace companies on the market, and I know several installers who won't install anything else. I installed a Bryant furnace in my own home 13 years ago and it has never caused me any problems (Bryant and Carrier are both made by the same company.) The Carrier Infinity ICS furnace is probably the best furnace on the market - and won't have the same heat exchanger problem you're experiencing.




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