is a level 6 cardon monoxide really bad?

Matthew j

if it is can you still live in your house

Answer
Most home carbon monoxide detectors report in parts per million rather than "level". 400 parts per million will kill you. 50 parts per million is the limit for workplace exposure. 30 parts per million will give you a headache. I would be concerned at any consistent reading over 10 parts per million and would try very hard to find the problem and eliminate it. Carbon monoxide is the leading cause of poisoning death in the US, accounting for over 1,500 fatalities per year.

Carbon Monoxide Detectors?

psychoholi

Should they be mounted high on a wall or low to the floor to properly detect Carbon Monoxide?
The detector I have is in no way going to be slept through, believe me. Should I mount it at head level with the bed? I guess really what I'm also trying to find out is if Carbon Monoxide is heavier or lighter than air.

Answer
It is recommend you place CO alarms near the sleeping areas, and on each level of the home. A good rule of thumb for the number and placement of CO alarms for your particular home is to place CO alarms near smoke and fire alarms that have been installed to meet current building code requirements in your area. Do not place CO alarms in the furnace room, kitchen or garage as these locations could lead to nuisance alarms.

Generally, one detector can be adequate for 1,200 to 1,500 square feet of living space. The most important determination for the number of CO alarms needed is whether an alarm can be heard in all sleeping areas. If you install only one CO alarm in your home, install the detector near bedrooms, not in the basement or furnace room.

For ease of viewing the visual indicators, (digital displays or alarm lights), it is recommended to place the CO alarm at eye level or above. Do not place the CO alarm in "dead air" spaces (no closer than 6" from the ceiling or floor) or turbulent air spaces such as by an open window, door or by a ceiling fan.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

How cold would it be in your house if your furnace decided to die? ?

carbon monoxide detector level 6 image

Jenn

Speculation, of course. It's 41 degrees in my town house, been about 8 hours, It's -4 degrees outside, repairman's coming "sometime between now and 5:00" another 6 hours and it will be cold enough to freeze water on the cupboard.

So, how cold would it get where you live? Has it ever happened to you?
I live in Wisconsin, it was -4 when I woke up with frozen toes, it's 10 degrees now (2:40pm).
All fixed now though-back to 71 degrees-toasty!
Wow, Tom-you're right, very important CO2 poisoning is very deadly and undetectable.

Answer
I am so glad you asked this question. It could possibly save some lives.
I just replaced my furnace in my attic a month ago. I was lucky enough to have a friend check it out for me. I had him check it out because the fan would never shut off even after the desired temperature was reached. Troy (furnace guy) told me that I was fortunate that the damage that was inside the vents did not start a fire and the kind of problem I had was notorious for emitting carbon monoxide. I went out and bought a carbon monoxide monitor and sure enough it was registering that the emission level was almost at a dangerous level Had it not been for that fan not shutting off and not getting the problem checked out,who knows what would have happened.
Just as a precaution, please go but a carbon monoxide detector. It could save the lives of you and your loved ones.
Wish Troy was available to ya Jenn. He has access to scratch and dent items and clearance items. I could care less. This was a top of the line product and it went in my attic. I could care less that it is scratched or dented. He installed it at minimal cost and is one of the most trusted person i have ever had do work for me. He does work for a major company but did this on the side.
If anyone is considering replacing a unit, check to see if companies will sell you scratch and dent units. Shop around and get the best price that you can.
Jenn: Hope your repairman shows up soon. Have some chicken soup and bundle up.......:)
It is 65 degrees right now. Yesterday it did not get out of the 30's. Tonight's low 37. Tomorrows high 40.That's life here in Va Beach.

I have a question about carbon monoxide detectors...?

Starscape

Where is the best place to put them-up high or down low. Does carbon monoxide tend to rise (like smoke will) or is it a heavy gas and build from the floor up? I notice many detectors are made to plug directly into an outlet, and many outlets are closer to the floor. I know carbon monoxide will eventually fill the room or building, but of course I don't want to let it get that far. So what's the best location for a detector?

Answer
It is instructed to put them at eye level, but that can mean anywhere from 3 1/2 to 6 1/2 feet. You'll notice that the manufacturer's instructions that come with the detector don't say high or low either.

The National Fire Protection Association has a code , number
720, 2-1.1.2* 1998 states that " A carbon monoxide alarm or detector should be centrally located outside of each separated sleeping area in the immediate vicinity of the bedrooms. Where bedrooms are separated and the audibility of the alarm or detector to occupants within the bedroom area could be seriously impaired, more than one unit could be needed. Each
alarm or detector should be located on the wall, ceiling, or other
location as specified in the installation instructions that accompany the unit." . In addition more than CO will be emitted with furnace failure or with the use of an unvented heaters. Carbon dioxide a heavier gas will collect on the floor building up and possibly preventing carbon monoxide from ever reaching the alarm if located at a floor outlet. That is why it is recommended that CO alarms be placed high around eye level where the
higher concentrations would be concentrated.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

I'm about to do a walkthrough on my newly-constructed home - What things should I look for or be aware of?

carbon monoxide detector level 6 image

Luis S

single-family home

Answer
Ask the contractor to inform you of your maintenance responsibilities as the home owner. (monthly/yearly, etc.)This is a compliment to him. It allows him to teach you something and most contractors are impressed with home owners that desire to maintain properly what their labor has produced. The ultimate effect is it saves them time/money because they don't have to return to the job site to do something such as "push a reset button on your dishwasher." Most importantly TAKE NOTES.

Inspect the electrical panel. Is a "passed" sticker present?"
Request all circuits be clearly labeled.

Do the locks work correctly ?

Do windows operate properly, (open, close, lock) and are all screens present?

Do you have all manufacturers warranties/paperwork on appliances?

How do I change/clean the furnace filter, if present?

Are smoke alarms present and working? TEST EACH ONE!

Where is the carbon monoxide detector located?

Was a radon detector installed?

Was a "blower door test" performed on the dwelling and if so, what were the results?

Ask for a 1 year verbal agreement on "moisture/mold/mildew mitigation" if the problem arises. Any professional contractor would say yes to this because his reputation, future income potential, and profession would be in jeopardy if problems arise in the dwelling.

Test the HOT WATER Temperature and adjust if necessary. (Up or down) Note: Some dishwasher manufactures mandate temp of 140 degrees or warranty may be voided. Important: Test at kitchen faucet, not shower/bath faucet as ANTI SCALD DEVICES MAY BE PRESENT on these valves.

Where is the Attic Access located? Does it truly seal sufficiently?

IMPORTANT. Inspect attic insulation at eaves. Be certain soffit ventilation was not blocked when insulation was installed. Insulation should not be touching the roof deck. Also, be certain attic lighting was installed and is working as most states require new construction lighting in attic arreas. Does the bathroom exhaust fan exhaust THROUGH the roof deck. Simply left to exhaust into the attic is a big NO NO. Don't ever let anyone do that to your investment or occupants health.

If a crawl space is present, was 6 mill poly installed on ground as a vapor barrier. If it's not there, respectfully insisit it be done even if it's at extra cost to youo


Use a 4 foot level to inspect sill plate & floors, especially where appliances will be or are located. Use level on countertops/bathroom vanity/tub & shower base.

Please, bring your own flash light, tape measure, thermometer and level.

Inspect prime doors for weathertight seal.

If a deck was constructed, was it sealed, and if so with what product. (When will it need to be resealed)

Ask to see copies of Inspections performed during the construction process.

I would plan on at least dedicating 2 hours to this process. @ hours now or years of giref later.

Ultimately, you are building you own "knowledge equity" of the dwelling and it's mechanical systems. This gives you the opportunity to answer ?'s should you ever decide to list and sell the property in the future.

Carbon Monoxide Detectors?

psychoholi

Should they be mounted high on a wall or low to the floor to properly detect Carbon Monoxide?
The detector I have is in no way going to be slept through, believe me. Should I mount it at head level with the bed? I guess really what I'm also trying to find out is if Carbon Monoxide is heavier or lighter than air.

Answer
It is recommend you place CO alarms near the sleeping areas, and on each level of the home. A good rule of thumb for the number and placement of CO alarms for your particular home is to place CO alarms near smoke and fire alarms that have been installed to meet current building code requirements in your area. Do not place CO alarms in the furnace room, kitchen or garage as these locations could lead to nuisance alarms.

Generally, one detector can be adequate for 1,200 to 1,500 square feet of living space. The most important determination for the number of CO alarms needed is whether an alarm can be heard in all sleeping areas. If you install only one CO alarm in your home, install the detector near bedrooms, not in the basement or furnace room.

For ease of viewing the visual indicators, (digital displays or alarm lights), it is recommended to place the CO alarm at eye level or above. Do not place the CO alarm in "dead air" spaces (no closer than 6" from the ceiling or floor) or turbulent air spaces such as by an open window, door or by a ceiling fan.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Do air filled balloons float on Carbon Monoxide?

carbon monoxide detector level 6 image

abear

It is interesting to me that our air filled balloons are floating towards the ceiling. Is it possible that there is something wrong in the room. Could it be carbon monoxide?

Answer
NOOOO! because only helium can make the latex balloons fly because helium is very light unlike carbon monoxide. CO (carbon monoxide).
another is Although the molecular weights of these gases differ, convection and not
density differences dominate the distribution of CO, methane etc. The
release of gases associated with combustion tend to rise because they are
hotter than ambient. For this reason smoke detectors and CO detectors are
usually placed high on the walls of hallways etc.

High or low in a room; It makes no difference where you put the detector
-- but not because carbon monoxide and air have approximately the same
density. Both are gases and as a result, diffusion alone and the entropy
effect will take care of mixing them. Any convection currents and/or
forced-air turbulence present will also enable the gases to mix and affect
the detector.

It is popularly misconceived that light (low-density) gases will somehow
float atop heavy (higher density) gases. Indeed, if the higher density gas
was admitted low in the room, and done so in a manner that would not cause
much mixing, it would take a while for the gases to become thoroughly
mixed by the mechanisms mentioned above. Even so, they would eventually mix.

That said, since time to detection may be of the essence, and in
circumstances where the contaminant gas (such as radon -- a gas of very
high density) gets into the room through entry points more or less at
floor level, where one puts the detector can become important.

Air is 1/4 oxygen O2, (weight 16) and mainly nitrogen N2 (weight 14).

CO is weight 12+8 = 20, so heavier than "air"
Methane (natural gas) is CH4 = 12 + 4(1) = 16, so mixes with air fairly
well, hard to say.

I would put the CO and methane detectors near the furnace.


Air is 1/4 oxygen O2, (weight 16) and mainly nitrogen N2 (weight 14).

CO is weight 12+8 = 20, so heavier than "air"
Methane (natural gas) is CH4 = 12 + 4(1) = 16, so mixes with air fairly
well, hard to say.

I would put the CO and methane detectors near the furnace.

Neither, for the most part.
Carbon monoxide has nearly the same density as air.
You'll notice that the manufacturer's instructions that come with the
detector don't say high or low either.

The density of a gas is proportional to the weight of a single molecule of
that gas.

So you figure relative buoyancy for yourself if you start learning a few
atomic weights:
H=1, He=4, C=12, N=14, O=16.

Add them up for the molecular weights of pure gasses:
H2 = (1+1) = 2, very light
He = (4) = 4, very light
N2 = (14+14 ) = 28, about neutral
O2 = (16+16) = 32, slightly heavy
CO2= (12+16+16)= 44, heavy
CO = (12+16) = 28, about neutral
CH4= (12+4*1) = 18, light (majority part of natural gas)
H2O= (2*1+16) = 18, light (steam)
C2H6=(2*12+6*1)= 30, about neutral (minority part of natural gas)
C3H8=(8 + 3*12)= 42, heavy (propane)
C4H10=(10+4*12)= 58, (butane)
C5H12=(12+5*12)= 70, pentane, lightest part of gasoline

For mixed gasses just take a proportionate average:
Air is 80% N2 + 20% O2 .
air = 0.8(28) + 0.2(32) = 29 (exactly neutral, by definition)

So pure carbon monoxide is actually about 3% lighter than air.
But usually it is made in modest concentrations, mixed in with the normal
combustion products: CO2, H2O.
Which are always mixed with the 80% Nitrogen that never participates in
burning.
Then that mixes with room air, making an even smaller concentration...

And there are uncertainties...
Some fuels make light exhaust (more H2O), some make heavy (more CO2).
Then when the exhaust cools the light part, H20 (steam), may condense and
drop out.
Not to mention that the exhaust gas was expanded when hot, and it
contracts as it cools.
No rule can predict which way it is going to go in most circumstances.

Because it travels in whatever directions your air normally
circulates, which varies,
it is difficult in most homes to find an advantageous position where CO
will enter or concentrate.
So we settle for any convenient position, or one associated with that
which we wish to protect,
namely us, breathing in air at medium heights.

My CO detector is at about waist-level in a hallway, partly because there
was a convenient power socket there.
Also the only air-intake to the house heater is there, so virtually all
the air in the house will pass that position regularly.

Doing a really good job needs more than one detector, but they are not
cheap enough for that yet.
One for each potential source of monoxide, plus one for each
protectee. Maybe someday.
Meanwhile, if I had a wall heater, I wouldd definitely place my one
detector near there, probably high up.

Home evaluation for department of family and children services?

luckyarbor

I have a set of twin cousins in a foster home right now and I am trying to have them placed in my home so they are coming out to do a home evaluation tomorrow what are they looking for so I can pass this and get them in my home?

Answer
I actually do "homestudies" for the state of Utah. Everything needs to be safe for the child. My agency requires the child to have their own bedroom, but if they are siblings, then they can share. Own beds, that are sturdy (not air mattresses).

Windows need to have screens. There must be two exits in case of fire on each level (windows count). Fridge, stove, microwave, etc...needs to be working. There needs to be smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors on each level. We require fire a extinguisher. Emergency numbers posted by the phone. 3 steps or more require a banister. Bathrooms must be in working order. Heater must be able to maintain temperature of at least 68 degrees.

Furnace must have cleared space of 6 ft around it. (Or be in its own closet). Medications, firearms, and hazardous materials must be locked. Garbage must be sanitary. Those are the ones I can think of for the actual homestudy. If they don't have any of these things that can be easily fixed, we just let them know what they need to do, and we come back for a follow up visit and most likely we can approve their home.

We also do an intensive interview process to ask them about their marriage, (how they handle issues) extended family(support system), and kids. We also ask the kids in the home some questions about having foster siblings. We also talk to them about their lifestyle, activities, typical day, or week. The questions take about an hour or so, and we have foster kids with disabilities so it's a little more intense.

That is awesome that you are willing to take in your cousins. I wish I had more relatives willing to take in their family. That's so important, and kudos for doing that. I'm sure that because you are related, they will help you in any possible way to make it a successful placement.

I hope this helped you, best of luck!!!

Powered by Yahoo! Answers