newjediord
It never actually sounded, but the Peak Level went from 0, to 15, to 21, to 26. (There's a button you can push called Peak Level) So, does anyone know what this means? Do I have a slow-leaking source of carbon monoxide, or is my alarm just detecting other similar chemicals? As a side note, the alarm is in the kitchen, not in the ceiling, but on a counter.
Answer
The highest level it has detected is 26 parts per million, most will not alarm till 50 ppm. Get it out of the kitchen, simply cooking could cause the reading. I recommend you put detectors where you sleep.
Carbon monoxide is known as the silent killer because most become victims while they are
are sleeping. Candles, burnt food, gas stoves, auto exhaust, gas water heaters and gas furnaces are examples of things to look for. Exposure to over 5ppm is not recommended for any length of time. It is also possible your detector is faulty, I would not bet on that. Take the time to sort this one out.
The highest level it has detected is 26 parts per million, most will not alarm till 50 ppm. Get it out of the kitchen, simply cooking could cause the reading. I recommend you put detectors where you sleep.
Carbon monoxide is known as the silent killer because most become victims while they are
are sleeping. Candles, burnt food, gas stoves, auto exhaust, gas water heaters and gas furnaces are examples of things to look for. Exposure to over 5ppm is not recommended for any length of time. It is also possible your detector is faulty, I would not bet on that. Take the time to sort this one out.
Is a propane heater safe for indoor use?
John Jones
I need to heat a small shop during the winter. The propane heater would only be running when I'm in the shop, and no other time. I need to know if it is really safe to run a propane heater in this kind of environment. Would carbon monoxide build up be a problem? I'm sure I could install a battery operated carbon monoxide detector if I needed to.
Answer
You need to consult the CERTIFIED operating instructions of any heater you attempt to use for this area to ensure it is suitable for that application. If it is not certified for indoor use and it causes a fire or hurts anyone ( CO poisoning included ), the manufacturer will take no responsibility and insurance companies will deny any claims because the heater was used "In a manner other than what it was intended".
You should be installing something like an Empire DV35 "direct-vent" wall furnace in there. Direct vent means it takes air from outside, burns it with the fuel, and then puts the products of combustion back outside. There is no communication of the flame with the air you are breathing in the room. It's certainly not the cheapest option, but it is the safest!
EDIT: Basically any fuel burning appliance requires air. Combustion air and ventilation air. you need enough air for combustion and you need ventilation air to get the products of combustion out of the area so you do not reburn them. The general rule of thumb in the industry is 1 in² per 1000 btu's. If you have a 50,000 btu heater you need an opening of 50 in² to provide proper airflow. That does not mean opening a window or door. These could easily be closed, cutting off the air supply. Again, you need to carefully read the operating instructions.
If you put a monoxide detector in the shop with a portable heater, it will be alarming constantly. Detectors are very sensitive and portable heaters are not precision burners.
RENPEN: If you look at the CERTIFIED operating instructions for a kitchen range you will see that those appliances are APPROVED for indoor use. This is because ranges have a more precise gas valve. It controls the fuel pressure to a closer tolerance and gives a consistently even flame. Not like portable heaters or grills that have $5 regulators that could be +/- the proper pressure. The other reason is that a range is only used for relatively short periods of time and is a low btu appliance.
You need to consult the CERTIFIED operating instructions of any heater you attempt to use for this area to ensure it is suitable for that application. If it is not certified for indoor use and it causes a fire or hurts anyone ( CO poisoning included ), the manufacturer will take no responsibility and insurance companies will deny any claims because the heater was used "In a manner other than what it was intended".
You should be installing something like an Empire DV35 "direct-vent" wall furnace in there. Direct vent means it takes air from outside, burns it with the fuel, and then puts the products of combustion back outside. There is no communication of the flame with the air you are breathing in the room. It's certainly not the cheapest option, but it is the safest!
EDIT: Basically any fuel burning appliance requires air. Combustion air and ventilation air. you need enough air for combustion and you need ventilation air to get the products of combustion out of the area so you do not reburn them. The general rule of thumb in the industry is 1 in² per 1000 btu's. If you have a 50,000 btu heater you need an opening of 50 in² to provide proper airflow. That does not mean opening a window or door. These could easily be closed, cutting off the air supply. Again, you need to carefully read the operating instructions.
If you put a monoxide detector in the shop with a portable heater, it will be alarming constantly. Detectors are very sensitive and portable heaters are not precision burners.
RENPEN: If you look at the CERTIFIED operating instructions for a kitchen range you will see that those appliances are APPROVED for indoor use. This is because ranges have a more precise gas valve. It controls the fuel pressure to a closer tolerance and gives a consistently even flame. Not like portable heaters or grills that have $5 regulators that could be +/- the proper pressure. The other reason is that a range is only used for relatively short periods of time and is a low btu appliance.
Powered by Yahoo! Answers
Tidak ada komentar:
Posting Komentar