carbon monoxide detectors ny image
mada
I am finishing my basement. Home is in upstate NY. The basement is completely underground on 3 sides, with concrete walls and floor for foundation. It is damp, to a point where dehumidifier fills up daily. There are no standing puddles or anything, just smells damp. The concrete walls and floors appear dry, but is this how dampness is entering? I want to make sure it is healthy for my 8 month old daughter to live down there, so what precautions do I need to dry it out? I got mold and mildew resistant drywall for all ceilings and walls. Do I need to paint a vapor barrier paint on all floors and walls before installing the drywall and flooring? Also, do I need a poly barrier of some sort? I also bought insulation with a vapor barrier around it. Please let me know what I need to do to make it safe for a small child to live in this space, and if I am in the right direction. I am also getting VOC-free Kilz primer because I want this space to be healthy, but I want to make sure I get the other stuff right first.
Answer
First, you _CANNOT_ make a cellar (100% below grade makes it a cellar, not a basement) into a safely habitable space without some means of proper positive ventilation. Are there actual operating windows in the third side? If not, you will have to install positive mechanical ventilation that is also in constant operation. Although this is a matter of code, it is also a matter of basic safety and health. Gases that might accumulate that are also heavier than air are:
Radon
Sewer Gases (methane, hydrogen sulfide and ammonia)
Propane
Carbon-dioxide
Carbon Monoxide (lighter than air but if the basement door is closed it can accumulate).
Sources for these gases might be small leaks in the soil line, a boiler or furnace, water heater, dryer or other gas or oil-burning appliance, and in the case of Radon, naturally occurring. If your daughter is to share space with any of these appliances you *MUST* install a Carbon Monoxide detector, get the place tested for Radon, and if you have natural gas or propane in the house a detector for that as well.
With all that in mind, the moisture is infiltrating through the concrete. Even old concrete is quite porous to water, and most residential construction did not use vapor-barriers when installing floors and walls, even as single-pour systems. There are vapor barrier paints and floor coatings that work to some degree, but the vapor-pressure through the concrete is considerable - such that you will never stop it entirely using a coating alone.
If everything is safe otherwise, and you have addressed the ventilation and Radon issues, this will be a good start:
a) Coat the floor with a vapor-inhibiting paint. Install a PERGO-type (interlocking laminate) floor over the self-sealing vapor-barrier underlayment (the link is for function, not brand).
b) When you frame the walls, use treated lumber for the bottom plate against rot.
c) Install the vapor-barrier insulation, then install another layer of Visqueen plastic (6 mil).
d) Then the drywall. Caulk the edges of the drywall.
e) STILL run a small dehumidifier on a humidistat with a condensate pump so you do not have to dump the pan every day.
You need to keep the relative humidity below 50%, or mold may start.
Good luck with it. DO check the life-safety issues first!
First, you _CANNOT_ make a cellar (100% below grade makes it a cellar, not a basement) into a safely habitable space without some means of proper positive ventilation. Are there actual operating windows in the third side? If not, you will have to install positive mechanical ventilation that is also in constant operation. Although this is a matter of code, it is also a matter of basic safety and health. Gases that might accumulate that are also heavier than air are:
Radon
Sewer Gases (methane, hydrogen sulfide and ammonia)
Propane
Carbon-dioxide
Carbon Monoxide (lighter than air but if the basement door is closed it can accumulate).
Sources for these gases might be small leaks in the soil line, a boiler or furnace, water heater, dryer or other gas or oil-burning appliance, and in the case of Radon, naturally occurring. If your daughter is to share space with any of these appliances you *MUST* install a Carbon Monoxide detector, get the place tested for Radon, and if you have natural gas or propane in the house a detector for that as well.
With all that in mind, the moisture is infiltrating through the concrete. Even old concrete is quite porous to water, and most residential construction did not use vapor-barriers when installing floors and walls, even as single-pour systems. There are vapor barrier paints and floor coatings that work to some degree, but the vapor-pressure through the concrete is considerable - such that you will never stop it entirely using a coating alone.
If everything is safe otherwise, and you have addressed the ventilation and Radon issues, this will be a good start:
a) Coat the floor with a vapor-inhibiting paint. Install a PERGO-type (interlocking laminate) floor over the self-sealing vapor-barrier underlayment (the link is for function, not brand).
b) When you frame the walls, use treated lumber for the bottom plate against rot.
c) Install the vapor-barrier insulation, then install another layer of Visqueen plastic (6 mil).
d) Then the drywall. Caulk the edges of the drywall.
e) STILL run a small dehumidifier on a humidistat with a condensate pump so you do not have to dump the pan every day.
You need to keep the relative humidity below 50%, or mold may start.
Good luck with it. DO check the life-safety issues first!
Smoke Detectors Question?
kasmira25
I just moved into a whole house and have noticed that there is one non working old as dirt smoke detector in the kitchen and non anywhere else in the house.
How many smoke detectors do i need?
I live in upstate NY
The house has a full unfinished basement, first floor,second floor with 4 bedrooms and bathroom, unfinished attic.
Gas heat and stove- so do i need a carbon monoxide detector?
I have two small children
The house is not new, its an older victorian
Any info would be helpful as to the amount and placement!! Thank you!
Answer
Not sure what the laws are regarding them, but I will give you best practices.
There should be at least one smoke detector and one carbon monoxide detector on each level of the home.
Each bedroom should have it's own smoke detector, preferably near the door to catch any smoke entering from the hallway.
Don't put a smoke detector in the kitchen due to nuisance alarms, but it's a good idea to have one nearby.
So I would recommend 8 smoke alarms and 3 CO detectors. If you want you can substitute 3 CO/smoke combo detectors.
Put one in each bedroom, one in the main hall on the second floor, two on the main floor, and one or two in the basement depending how big it is.
Not sure what the laws are regarding them, but I will give you best practices.
There should be at least one smoke detector and one carbon monoxide detector on each level of the home.
Each bedroom should have it's own smoke detector, preferably near the door to catch any smoke entering from the hallway.
Don't put a smoke detector in the kitchen due to nuisance alarms, but it's a good idea to have one nearby.
So I would recommend 8 smoke alarms and 3 CO detectors. If you want you can substitute 3 CO/smoke combo detectors.
Put one in each bedroom, one in the main hall on the second floor, two on the main floor, and one or two in the basement depending how big it is.
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